Description

The Morning Glory Wall is home to some of the best and most popular routes at Smith. Sunny, warm, and accessable routes range from the ever-popular 5 Gallon Buckets (5.8) to the crimpfests like Churning In the Wake and Taco Chips. This area is often the place to be seen at Smith, and the popular routes will almost always have a group under them. Expect to wait in line for the most popular selections on busy weekend days.

Virtually all of the routes here are well-protected by bomber bolts and are on clean, solid rock.

Getting There

The Morning Glory Wall stretches from the Cocaine Gully on the right to the Peanut on the left. From the bridge, follow the trails along the hillside past the gullies.

41 Total Climbs

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Location: (g) Morning Glory Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Morning Glory Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 894
5 Gallon Buckets
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 237
Lion's Jaw
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 456
The Outsiders
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 445
Light on the Path
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 243
Zebra Zion
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 151
Gumby
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 148
Morning Sky
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 506
Nine Gallon Buckets
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 106
Zebra Direct
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 147
Magic Light Start
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 165
Cool Ranch Flavor
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 118
Overboard
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 51
Zebra Seam
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 63
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 88
Magic Light
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
5 Gallon Buckets
 894
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Lion's Jaw
 237
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Outsiders
 456
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Light on the Path
 445
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Zebra Zion
 243
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Gumby
 151
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Morning Sky
 148
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Nine Gallon Buckets
 506
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Zebra Direct
 106
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Magic Light Start
 147
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Cool Ranch Flavor
 165
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Overboard
 118
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Zebra Seam
 51
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension
 63
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Magic Light
 88
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Morning Glory Wall »

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doggy  
Okay, okay, okay...I thought it would be fun for people to have something to push for (goals are always good and having fun is even better). So why not keep track of our times up Zebra Zion, from base of climb and back to the base, with two or more partners...I guess if you want you could go solo, but always better to be safe! If you go as fast as you wanted you get to but yourself a beer and a doggy bone for me! Jul 22, 2009
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
Okay doggy, you first? Climbed Zion base-to-base via Gumby with my wife today in exactly 1 hour. Can definitely go faster. Nov 4, 2017