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All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (g) Morning Glory Wall

Gumby

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British


 Avg: 2.5 from 146 votes

Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Taco Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Alan Watts & Brooke Sandahl 3/87
Page Views: 6,152 total · 40/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

What's this? Another fun moderate face climb on the Morning Glory wall? Say it ain't so!

This route starts about 30 feet to the left of the dihedral near Zebra Direct and Light on the Path. Good face climbing on the bottom leads to juggy huecos at the top.

Protection

4 bolts and a bolted anchor

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Climbed a route that matches the description for "Gumby". Really nice crimps, sidepulls and a swath of great heuco jugs to another crimp ladder. Only climbed to the first set of anchors which I assume leads to "Lion Zion" Very good climb. If its Gumby then I highly recommend it since there usually is no line to wait in since everyone is mobbing five gallon buckets to the left. Thanks to everyone who made my first Smith Rock experience a great one!
Climbed a route that matches the description fo…
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6 Comments

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ScottH
  5.10b
ScottH  
  5.10b
There is an excellent variation to this climb that is the best single pitch climb I have done on the Morning Glory wall (the variation may have a name and should be listed as a different route?). After reaching the giant huecos, find a good stance and rest your arms. Instead of following the huecos up and right to end at the P1 Zebra-Zion anchors (5.easy), continue straight up on pocketed and crimpy face climbing to a set of bolted anchors. This is pumpy and delicate climbing that is very similar in character to the first part of Gumby. Done this way I would call the route 10b/c. Jan 31, 2006
KateC
KateC  
Perhaps the route has had some equipment changes in the two years since the description was posted? There were more like 7 bolts on this line, with the anchors well near 75 feet above the ground (not 40). The top three bolts linked thin, crimpy, slabby, beautifully delicate climbing with the juggy-monkey heuco-pulling below. Fun!! Oct 27, 2008
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
 
The extension refered to in the comments above is called Morning Sky and is the natural line.

Gumby bails right on huge jugs to the Zebra Direct anchor to avoid a second crimpy crux higher on the slab. Jun 30, 2009
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
5.10+
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
5.10+
It's a good idea to avoid this route when another party is climbing Zion. I was nearly killed by rockfall belaying my partner as he linked Gumby and P2 of Zion. Feb 4, 2016
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
5.10+
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
5.10+
Seems to me the bottom of the climb gets a lot of traffic and has worn down a bit, it's harder than 5.10b now. Apr 28, 2016
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.10+
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.10+
This is much harder than a 10b since it’s so greasy. Really hard start. Stick clipped first bolt. Highly recommend that. Right before the 3rd bolt there’s a rail that feels amazing after all the crappy greasy holds. Then awesome ledge and up through large huecos the rest of the way. Due to being so grimey, I only recommend climbing this to TR the incredibly fun 11d Zebra Seam or to get up the Zion multi-pitch route. In reality, it will continue to be a popular route on this popular wall. 5 days ago

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