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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Taco Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Brooke Sandahl 3/87
Page Views: 2,985 total · 21/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Oct 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

A very insecure start with a pretty desperate stab to a good pocket gets things going on this aesthetic arete. Two more crux sections await, and there's a spicy runout before the last bolt once the real business is behind you. Be sure to save some gas for the last move though.

I found the movement to be pretty awkward and it felt very hard for the grade. I had a much easier time with the cruxes on The Quickening (.12d), but if delicate aretes are your thing then this is a good route.

Start on the boulder by stick clipping the first bolt (!), then step off onto the good rail and a few good footholds.

Location

Far right corner of the Churning Buttress on the Morning Glory Wall. Belay from below the boulder.

Protection

A stick clip is absolutely required. Nobody in their right mind would try to climb through the lower crux before the first bolt without it pre-clipped.

Photos

This is an awesome route that I think deserves a lot more attention. I'm really amazed this one doesn't get a ton of traffic. Probably a V4 boulder problem into some sustained and fun arete climbing. Nov 12, 2011
CritConrad
Bend, OR
  5.12c
CritConrad   Bend, OR
  5.12c
an often overlooked route. super aesthetic line with awesomely entertaining moves. packs quite the punch for being so short. Hard to grade for sure, but the crux of this is harder than anything on latest rage. The fall on the runout between the 3rd and 4th bolt is totally clean and fun. Apr 21, 2013

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