Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Brooke Sandahl 3/87
Page Views: 4,048 total · 24/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Oct 22, 2006
Admins: Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

Description

A very insecure start with a pretty desperate stab to a good pocket gets things going on this aesthetic arete. Two more crux sections await, and there's a spicy runout before the last bolt once the real business is behind you. Be sure to save some gas for the last move though.

I found the movement to be pretty awkward and it felt very hard for the grade. I had a much easier time with the cruxes on The Quickening (.12d), but if delicate aretes are your thing then this is a good route.

Start on the boulder by stick clipping the first bolt (!), then step off onto the good rail and a few good footholds.

Location

Far right corner of the Churning Buttress on the Morning Glory Wall. Belay from below the boulder.

Protection

A stick clip is absolutely required. Nobody in their right mind would try to climb through the lower crux before the first bolt without it pre-clipped.

Photos