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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Taco Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zebra Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Alan Watts, Bill Ramsey, May 1979
Page Views: 4,086 total · 27/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 19, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Thin, tricky moves on small edges and rounded scallops lead to a crux about half way up. The crux is a little before the lip where the climbing turns 5.5 for the remainder of the route. If you follow the wrong chalked holds you may find yourself in a hard to backtrack dead-end like many others before you.

Location

Left side of Morning Glory Wall, just left of the left-arching line, Zebra Seam.

Protection

4 bolts and rap anchors. These Top Anchors are shared with the routes, Gumby, Zebra Seam and the first pitch of Zebra or Zebra/Zion.

Photos

Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
 
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
 
This makes for a good secondary warmup as a toprope after climbing Gumby. Sep 25, 2006
Joel Sprenger
Terrebonne, OR
  5.11a
Joel Sprenger   Terrebonne, OR
  5.11a
Good climb. Not one move is too hard. Better than gumby. May want a stick clip for the first bolt seeing as it is way up there. Nov 28, 2007
Franck Vee
  5.11a
Franck Vee  
  5.11a
A bit short - the 11 part is really just 2.5 bolts (granted, those a spaced out). The top is fun climbing, similar to the other bucket fests to the left.

Did it twice - once the very first day @ Smith and once after 1 week of climbing here. The first time felt sketchy, super-crimpy and like there weren't any holds. The second time felt quite all right in comparison - the beginning is very smith-style. Jul 8, 2017
Dawn Liang
Portland, OR
Dawn Liang   Portland, OR
anchor biners looked pretty worn, replaced 3/19/18. didn't have the best biners for the replacement, especially for routes so frequently climbed, so i'm sure it would be appreciated if someone could put up some stronger biners. Mar 19, 2018

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