Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Alan Watts, Bill Ramsey, May 1979
Page Views: 4,213 total · 27/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 19, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


106 Opinions

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Description

Thin, tricky moves on small edges and rounded scallops lead to a crux about half way up. The crux is a little before the lip where the climbing turns 5.5 for the remainder of the route. If you follow the wrong chalked holds you may find yourself in a hard to backtrack dead-end like many others before you.

Location

Left side of Morning Glory Wall, just left of the left-arching line, Zebra Seam.

Protection

4 bolts and rap anchors. These Top Anchors are shared with the routes, Gumby, Zebra Seam and the first pitch of Zebra or Zebra/Zion.

Photos

Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
 
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
 
This makes for a good secondary warmup as a toprope after climbing Gumby. Sep 25, 2006
Joel Sprenger
Terrebonne, OR
  5.11a
Joel Sprenger   Terrebonne, OR
  5.11a
Good climb. Not one move is too hard. Better than gumby. May want a stick clip for the first bolt seeing as it is way up there. Nov 28, 2007
Franck Vee
  5.11a
Franck Vee  
  5.11a
A bit short - the 11 part is really just 2.5 bolts (granted, those a spaced out). The top is fun climbing, similar to the other bucket fests to the left.

Did it twice - once the very first day @ Smith and once after 1 week of climbing here. The first time felt sketchy, super-crimpy and like there weren't any holds. The second time felt quite all right in comparison - the beginning is very smith-style. Jul 8, 2017
Dawn Liang
Seattle, WA
Dawn Liang   Seattle, WA
anchor biners looked pretty worn, replaced 3/19/18. didn't have the best biners for the replacement, especially for routes so frequently climbed, so i'm sure it would be appreciated if someone could put up some stronger biners. Mar 19, 2018
Dom R
Bend, OR
  5.11-
Dom R   Bend, OR
  5.11-
Thought I was warming up on Gumby when I climbed this, and could have swore it felt stout for a 5.10! Glad I was right ha. Pretty sporty climbing with some exciting moves above the 2nd bolt to get you out of the crux, fun but short lived. There are currently no biners at the top and it's just chains, so make sure you have draws for the top. Nov 18, 2018