Avg: 3.1 from 19 votes
|Type:||Sport, 85 ft (26 m)|
|FA:||Martin Grullich 4/88|
|Page Views:||2,632 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Nov 27, 2006|
|Admins:||Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
You want to start a bit right of the bolt line and make an ascending traverse to the left, using sidepulls, underclings, a mono (RH) and even some straight down crimps. You may need to dyno once or twice, but once you reach the 2nd bolt you're home free. A stick clip (or crash pad) should be considered mandatory, or set up a TR as described below.
Many folks enjoy the upper 5.11- section by lowering into it after climbing to the Magic Light anchors. This approach is highly recommended if you're not into the crimpfest. Just lower to the 2nd bolt and crank away. The rope hangs straight down over this route from the Magic Light anchor, so no need to clip intermediate bolts or anything like that.