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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall
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5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cat Scan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Choss in America S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Churning in the Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Da Kine Corner S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Gumby S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lion Zion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lion Zion (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Lion's Chair Start T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mane Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Morning Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Ozone Hole S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Sign of the Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Taco Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tammy Bakker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Waste Case S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | Martin Grullich 4/88 |
| Page Views: | 3,525 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 27, 2006 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This notorious route offers an excellent, gnarly boulder problem crux right off the ground, followed by 60 feet of excellent 11- cranking. Unfortunately the route seems doomed to (relative) obscurity due to its desparate appearance. However, if you're a bouldering type, this route will be an easy tick, and its all there, despite rumors that the crux is V6.
You want to start a bit right of the bolt line and make an ascending traverse to the left, using sidepulls, underclings, a mono (RH) and even some straight down crimps. You may need to dyno once or twice, but once you reach the 2nd bolt you're home free. A stick clip (or crash pad) should be considered mandatory, or set up a TR as described below.
Many folks enjoy the upper 5.11- section by lowering into it after climbing to the Magic Light anchors. This approach is highly recommended if you're not into the crimpfest. Just lower to the 2nd bolt and crank away. The rope hangs straight down over this route from the Magic Light anchor, so no need to clip intermediate bolts or anything like that.
You want to start a bit right of the bolt line and make an ascending traverse to the left, using sidepulls, underclings, a mono (RH) and even some straight down crimps. You may need to dyno once or twice, but once you reach the 2nd bolt you're home free. A stick clip (or crash pad) should be considered mandatory, or set up a TR as described below.
Many folks enjoy the upper 5.11- section by lowering into it after climbing to the Magic Light anchors. This approach is highly recommended if you're not into the crimpfest. Just lower to the 2nd bolt and crank away. The rope hangs straight down over this route from the Magic Light anchor, so no need to clip intermediate bolts or anything like that.
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