Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Sean Olmstead, March 1987
Page Views: 13,919 total · 65/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Oct 22, 2006
Admins: Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

"Ok, now your left hand goes up to the nubbin...
Good. Now reset your feet and bump out right to the Windshield Wiper holds...
Ok, match, then bump out to the pinch...
Bring your left hand into the crimp, bring your right foot up, and fire for the jug"

Any given morning or afternoon at the base of Churning will yield a similar string of beta from a belayer or helpful bystander. This is probably the most worked route at Smith and many people have it so wired they can spew beta and call out sequences without even looking at the person climbing it.

It's for good reason though, since it really is a classic route here. It starts on fantastic deep pockets and gets progressively harder, finishing with a crux traverse sequence at the last bolt. Whether you climb it as a warmup for harder routes or work it as a project it's absolutely worth doing if you can climb the grade. Due to the amount of help you'll get (whether you want it or not...) and the quality of the moves this would be a great first Smith .13a.

Location Suggest change

Far right side of the Churning Buttress, on the Morning Glory Wall.

Protection Suggest change

Fully equipped with cable permadraws up to the first anchors. Stick clip recommended