Type: Sport
FA: Martin Grullich, 1987
Page Views: 5,616 total · 35/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006 with updates from Sam Bedell
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


120 Opinions

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Description

A great pitch that often gets used as a warm up for the 5.13s to the right on the Churning Buttress. It sees a lot of traffic, but with good reason. Typical Smith Rock crimps and pockets abound.

It's a fun route to jump on at the end of the day for one last burn on the way back to the car if nobody's on it.

The start is 15-20ft. to the right of the tree at the base of the Morning Glory wall, just around the corner from the Zebra/5 Gallon Buckets area.

To the second set of anchors is 11d and can be TR'd with a 70m.

Protection

8 bolts to a bolted anchor, or continue past another 5 bolts to a higher anchor.
Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR
 
Bryson Slothower   Portland, OR
 
To lower off the second set of anchors you need a 70m rope. May 8, 2006
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11c
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.11c
The rating goes up considerably with the humidity and the temperature... Aug 3, 2006
Philip Scoles
bum fuck, Oregon
  5.11a
Philip Scoles   bum fuck, Oregon
  5.11a
My favorite warm-up. Oct 26, 2006
Philip Scoles
bum fuck, Oregon
  5.11a
Philip Scoles   bum fuck, Oregon
  5.11a
Ian Cadwell just ripped off the loose flake right above the first anchors making the climb feel like 11c. Dec 13, 2006
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.11c
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.11c
Did it to the first anchors and the crux felt pretty slippery and precarious, like I could easily blow off at any time. The locals look like they could do it blindfolded. Jun 15, 2008
Fred Gomez  
 
Similar to the other routes on the morning glory wall with extensions the crux comes immediately after the first set of anchors. A right heel maneuver can prove to be really usefel for making the first few moves after the anchors. Dec 14, 2008
I don't know if this is the best place for this, but the anchor biners for the 1st pitch are very worn, probably over half way through. The groove is smooth and I felt OK rapping off of it, but it seemed worth mentioning. Aug 26, 2013