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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Martin Grullich, 1987
Page Views: 4,368 total, 30/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

A great pitch that often gets used as a warm up for the 5.13s to the right on the Churning Buttress. It sees a lot of traffic, but with good reason. Typical Smith Rock crimps and pockets abound.

It's a fun route to jump on at the end of the day for one last burn on the way back to the car if nobody's on it.

The start is 15-20ft. to the right of the tree at the base of the Morning Glory wall, just around the corner from the Zebra/5 Gallon Buckets area.

To the second set of anchors is 11d and can be TR'd with a 70m.

Protection

8 bolts to a bolted anchor, or continue past another 5 bolts to a higher anchor.
I don't know if this is the best place for this, but the anchor biners for the 1st pitch are very worn, probably over half way through. The groove is smooth and I felt OK rapping off of it, but it seemed worth mentioning. Aug 26, 2013
Fred Gomez  
 
Similar to the other routes on the morning glory wall with extensions the crux comes immediately after the first set of anchors. A right heel maneuver can prove to be really usefel for making the first few moves after the anchors. Dec 14, 2008
1Eric Rhicard
  5.11c
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.11c
Did it to the first anchors and the crux felt pretty slippery and precarious, like I could easily blow off at any time. The locals look like they could do it blindfolded. Jun 15, 2008
Philip Scoles
bum fuck, Oregon
  5.11a
Philip Scoles   bum fuck, Oregon
  5.11a
Ian Cadwell just ripped off the loose flake right above the first anchors making the climb feel like 11c. Dec 13, 2006
Philip Scoles
bum fuck, Oregon
  5.11a
Philip Scoles   bum fuck, Oregon
  5.11a
My favorite warm-up. Oct 26, 2006
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11c
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.11c
The rating goes up considerably with the humidity and the temperature... Aug 3, 2006
To lower off the second set of anchors you need a 70m rope. May 8, 2006