Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,091 total, 24/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Mar 27, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This rarely climbed route rises for a full rope-length to the left of Zebra/Zion's second pitch, and finishes at the Zebra/Zions mid-climb belay ledge. With surprisingly good knob-covered stone and continuous difficulty, this line makes an excellent diversion from the throngs of topropers below.

The route can be climbed as a 2nd pitch to any of the routes left of Zebra Seam (Gumby, Light on the Path, etc). This is probably wise if the route is near your limit, and is probably the most common approach. Climb whichever route is available and belay at the Gumby anchor.

Alternatively, if you don't mind the rope drag, and can scrounge up 16 draws, the route can be done in one mega pitch from the ground to the ledge, and descended with two 30m rappels.

The first crux hits about 15 feet above the Gumby anchor with tricky arete pinches surmounting the 16 inch roof. Once over the roof, super fun knobs head up and left to a second thin crux over somewhat marginal rock just below the ledge. A few slopey slab moves lead to the ledge.

Location

Begins above the Gumby anchor, following first the arete, and then the face left of Zebra/Zion's 2nd pitch.

Protection

16 bolts if done as one pitch. 3 bolt chain anchor atop Gumby, and 2 bolt chain anchor at the ledge.

Photos

ferrells  
 
did the full pitch in the spring. thanks for the beta, it was great fun. Nov 28, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
Originally this was an extension to Light on the Path, back in the day when Gumby finished on the huecos of Zebra Direct. Now that Gumby has an extension, Morning Sky, this route looks more like an extension to Gumby/Morning Sky, and it makes the most sense to approach it via Gumby/MS. So yes, this is an extension to the extension of Gumby. However for historical purposes, this "extension" was here before the extension of Gumby (!)

If its less confusing, everywhere I said "Gumby anchor" can be replaced with "Morning Sky anchor". Jan 12, 2009
ferrells  
 
maybe im not understanding what you mean by the gumby anchor - i thought this one was an extension to the extension of gumby (the 10c, straight up finish to gumby (morning sky)). thanks! Jan 11, 2009