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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 33,218 total, 230/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

The huge huecos of 5 Gallon Buckets are often the first piece of rock that a climber touches on his or her first trip to the park. The fun and consistent 5.8 climbing is straightforward and enjoyable as a warmup or a toprope. A Smith classic!

This is the left-most route on the big huecoed section of the wall. There's one bolt that can't be seen from the ground (it's in one of the big huecos), so remember to bring a 'draw for it.

Due to its central location and easy grade this is possibly the most popular route at Smith Rock. There is almost always a rope up on it and a crowd of people at the base. It receives early morning sun and keeps it all day, making it a good starting point for the cold days.

Protection

Route is protected by 7 bolts and a bolted anchor.
After a long hiatus from the sport, I'm just arriving back at a leading limit of 5.8. I, my wife (also vertically challenged), and two other climbers on this day all agreed that this is a nice 5.7. We climbed "Hissing Llamas" (5.8) on the Phoenix Buttress immediately afterwards, and it was much, much harder. Sep 6, 2016
nbollier
Portland, Oregon
 
nbollier   Portland, Oregon
 
Reminds me of RRG. Awesome jug haul with very cool features and pockets you can put your whole arm in Jul 19, 2016
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.6
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.6
For the grade this climb has excellent moves. I'd say it's more like Five point six gallon buckets though. Jun 27, 2016
Stephen Montgomery
Maryland
 
Stephen Montgomery   Maryland
 
perfect plate haul. ie plate tectonics in the Red Oct 18, 2015
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
The dead squirrel had the plauge, right? Aug 28, 2015
Why are people reporting spinning hangers? It's like stapling a flyer to a telephone pole warning your neighbors there's a dead squirrel in the road.

Tighten the thing up a bit, it is either going to be a 1/2" or 9/16" head.

Chad Aug 27, 2015
AJ Dexter
Portland, OR
 
AJ Dexter   Portland, OR
 
Repeating the previous comment from 10/2014. The 6th bolt, second down from anchors, was spinning. The 7th I didn't notice as much, but could be I wasn't paying good attention. Aug 27, 2015
James Kang  
 
My wife and I noticed yesterday that the 6th and 7th bolt hangers are starting to spin. Oct 19, 2014
Alex Mitchell
Cincinnati, OH
 
Alex Mitchell   Cincinnati, OH
 
Best 5.8 sport route I have climbed anywhere! May 27, 2013
lunabloomgirl
North East Washington
 
lunabloomgirl   North East Washington
 
Serious first bolt...
that's what I'd been told with serious solemn looks from other climbers. Jul 6, 2011
Casey Holmes  
 
Its a fun warm up, but watch out for bird droppings. Two days in a row I saw someone get hit by a bomber. Jun 6, 2011
Todd99  
The first bolt is pretty high off the deck. For safety's sake a stick clip isn't a bad idea. All the holds are pretty solid leading up to it but might be a little nerve wracking for a new leader. May 13, 2011
Ian G.
PDX, OR
 
Ian G.   PDX, OR
 
You can see your reflection on many of the holds... Sep 18, 2009
Mark Gibson
Seattle, WA
Mark Gibson   Seattle, WA
An awesome route that gets traffic seemingly 24/7. If you don't have to wait in line, you should buy a lottery ticket the same day. The relentless hiking does not diminish the awesome climbing however. And the shoe rubber filling up most the footholds should be of help to those lacking any footwork. If you're feeling a little more saucy, or just don't see the bolt hidden in the hueco, there's really no problem in running it out to the next bolt. This is Smith after all so it wouldn't hurt to get into the run-out spirit even on the warm-up 5.8's. Mar 25, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
This route was put up just as the 1992 Watts guide went to print. If you read the introduction to the Watts Guide carefully he mentions it by name, along with other late entries. Jan 22, 2008
ferrells  
 
Is this another name for a route in the Watts guide, or is it newer than the guidebook? Jan 18, 2008
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
The bolt in the hueco is just cruel. When its cold enough that the rock feels like the metal, its easy to grab the hanger thinking its just a feature. Good warmup. Dec 28, 2006
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
A fun warm up, but once the sun hits this route, the sun turns the buckets into slippery buckets of ooze. Feb 28, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
Thought this was a fun warm-up for the neighboring routes. Jan 25, 2006