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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Darius Azin
Page Views: 2,370 total, 18/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 29, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This devious line doesn't have the same stunning appearance as other Smith classics, but if you like challenging movement in a relatively secluded location, this route has a lot to offer.

Often described as, 'girl climbing', this route requires excellent balance and technical skills, but not as much power as other Smith 13s. The cruxes involve sequential liebacking maneuvers, and at times it may feel more like you're climbing a crack than a face.

Though quite short, this route is difficult the entire way.

Location

Immediately right of Da Kine Corner, begin at the same spot on the boulder, but begin by traversing to the right, then up into the right-most bolt line.

Protection

Bolts. Use a stick clip for the first bolt.

Photos

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First thoughts on this route:
Like most routes at smith described as technical or "girly?", I didn't find the route devoid of powerful moves. The crux hits between bolts two and four, working up a large but sloped side pull feature. From the 4th bolt up the climbing is 12- resistance climbing until you reach glory jugs. There might only one okay rest hold on the entire route. Compared to Dakine the route is shorter with a slightly harder crux and less rest, but the holds are nicer on the fingers. Dec 24, 2013
Mike Dalby
Bend, OR
  5.13a
Mike Dalby   Bend, OR
  5.13a
Perhaps the route has been retro-bolted, but I've found that I can easily reach the first bolt while standing on the boulder and don't use a stick clip. I'm by no means a tall man (more of a man-boy).

That being said, it wouldn't hurt if it's your first time scrambling up to the top of the boulder, and I definitely wouldn't fault someone for stick clipping every time. An accidental fall off the left side of the boulder would be fairly catastrophic. Aug 30, 2013
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
5.13b
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
5.13b
If Churning is 13a then this is 13b for sure. That's what it's rated in the newest Smith guidebook. May 6, 2011