Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob Martin & Ray Snyder, 1970, FFA (TR): Alan Watts, August 1981, FL: Steve Byrne, 1984
Page Views: 4,870 total · 31/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 9, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Description

This route climb the attractive left-arching corner system a short distance to the right of Zebra and shares anchors with that route.

* Originally led without bolts, this was a serious lead; it was later retro-bolted and has became a popular (and safe) lead.

Lieback, jam and stem your way up the corner taking full advantage of the many edges for your feet, and occasionally your hands, to a crux at the very top of the route.

An excellent climb with technical movement and a heartbreaker crux at the top (for those who pitch off there). There are no real stopper moves on this route, and if you climb efficiently and don't get overly pumped it's in the bag.

Location

You'll find this route immediately right of Zebra Direct and two routes to the right of Gumby.

Protection

8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
The crux move of this route is somewhat contrived and totally skip-able by reaching left to the finishing jugs of Zebra Direct. I did this just after grabbing the two finger pocket before the crux and it felt mid-11ish. For the +, climb straight up using the pocket and small nubbins out right to an old bolt right of the chains. (makes a good directional) Apr 21, 2011
rees labree
Boulder, CO
rees labree   Boulder, CO
does this go on gear Sep 6, 2018
another Chad
5.12a
another Chad  
5.12a
Rees, Zebra Seam has been freed with gear as the sole protection.

Chad Sep 7, 2018
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
 
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
 
Very sustained. Some awesome liebacking. You can get away with sidepulling more than proper crack climbing. I thought the hardest parts were in the middle. There are 2 short enjoyable traverses on the face. I disagree about the crux being after the last bolt even without using the huecos because there is an awesome undercling up high for left hand, a super great nubbin on the right. Even for a short person the final large undercling is easy to reach with one hand and once on it you can move your feet, reach over and tap the anchors. Sep 17, 2018
Dom R
Bend, OR
 
Dom R   Bend, OR
 
I feel like the sustained nature of the route gives it a hard 11 grade more than any single crux move. Not a route with straightforward pulling on it, lots of stemming and weird off balance lieback moves, make it feel hard if you're not well versed in that sort of thing. I forgot my stickclip and found that a .75 camalot helps protect a couple of the moves off the ground, but you're still in groundfall territory clipping/getting to the first bolt. Fun climbing, aesthetic line. Nov 18, 2018