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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Bob Martin & Ray Snyder, 1970, FFA (TR): Alan Watts, August 1981, FL: Steve Byrne, 1984
Page Views: 4,038 total, 28/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 9, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This route climb the attractive left-arching corner system a short distance to the right of Zebra and shares anchors with that route. Originally led without bolts, this was a serious lead; it was later retro-bolted and has became a popular (and safe) lead.

Lieback, jam and stem your way up the corner taking full advantage of the many edges for your feet, and occasionally your hands, to a crux at the very top of the route.

An excellent climb with technical movement and a heartbreaker crux at the top (for those who pitch off there). There are no real stopper moves on this route, and if you climb efficiently and don't get overly pumped it's in the bag.

Location

You'll find this route immediately right of Zebra Direct and two routes to the right of Gumby.

Protection

8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
The crux move of this route is somewhat contrived and totally skip-able by reaching left to the finishing jugs of Zebra Direct. I did this just after grabbing the two finger pocket before the crux and it felt mid-11ish. For the +, climb straight up using the pocket and small nubbins out right to an old bolt right of the chains. (makes a good directional) Apr 21, 2011