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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Alan Quine 3/88
Page Views: 8,675 total, 60/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Another Morning Glory moderate. This is a good alternative to the adjacent 5 Gallon Buckets and Outsiders if there are people on them. It is more difficult than its neighbor with a crux getting off the ground, and then near the top towards the top.

The route is found between The Outsiders and Gumby on the huecoed section of the Morning Glory Wall.

Protection

Route is protected by 8 bolts and a bolted anchor. Bring your own draws, as the steel ones are getting pretty worn.
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.10a/b
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.10a/b
This route has a bouldery start that will likely benefit from a stick-clip. The crux comes up high, thankfully out of range from the shin-busting huecos.

Most of the route comes in at a 5.9, with perhaps one 10a/b move at the crux. 4 days ago
morgoth70
Bountiful, UT
  5.9+
morgoth70   Bountiful, UT
  5.9+
Aside from the opening boulder problem, I'd call this a 5.9. Super crimpy, very sustained 5.9, but 5.9 all the same. Jun 17, 2015
MeghanK
 
MeghanK  
 
This is at least .10a. Quite a bit harder than most other 5.9s at Smith. Mar 23, 2015
donggua
Corvallis, Oregon
donggua   Corvallis, Oregon
This is a 10a for sure, not 5.9. leaving the ground feels like a V0 bouldering problem. and the final moves toward the top is quite sutble, which means a smith rock 10a -- one balancy move and a little bit insecure Jun 19, 2013
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10a/b
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10a/b
The series of crimps up top are tricky if you get sucked into going for the jugs out right. Very solid 5.10. May 1, 2012
jrdezso
portland
jrdezso   portland
Good post from RodJ. The start is a bit tricky. I had to do a different sequence than the others I was with to get off the ground. Mar 23, 2011
Rod J.
Bend, OR
  5.10a/b
Rod J.   Bend, OR
  5.10a/b
Many people are confusing LOTP with The Outsiders (thanks to the original posting of this route). The Outsiders is the route that is adjacent to 5GBs - not LOTP! LOTP is one route right of The Outsiders & 2 routes right of 5GBs. LOTP is every bit a 10a. I wouldn't argue with a 10a/b rating. LOTP is significantly harder than 5GBs (5.8) & The Outsiders (5.9). Jul 25, 2010
Mark Gibson
Seattle, WA
Mark Gibson   Seattle, WA
This is a great route if you're looking for something a little spicier than 5 Gallon Buckets. It gets the edging and crimping game warmed up for the rest of the delicate climbing in the Park. Mar 25, 2009
amyc Christensen
  5.10a
amyc Christensen  
  5.10a
Really fun climb. Looks like it's rated a 5.9 if you start at 5 Gallon Buckets and move right (re: smithrock.com route guide and the watts guidebook), but if you climb straight up from under the anchors, the consensus seems to be a 5.10a (which I agree with). Fun start (when you get it). :)

It also seems like with the popularity of that particular area, it's good karma to climb the routes straight up, leaving bolts for the other routes free. Oct 13, 2008
grizz Burton
  5.10-
grizz Burton  
  5.10-
Fun climb. Slightly more difficult than five gallon buckets with some good edging up top. The new guide rates it .10a. May 12, 2008