Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,670 total, 26/month
Shared By: Andrew Hunzicker on Jul 23, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

this route is part 3 of the churning series: first climb churning in the wake (13a), then do some fun and weird moves off the anchor (after a nice rest) followed by a trickly clip. continue on past another mild crux, clip a few more, then do a hard crux (tiny crimp for left, mono for right) and quick pop for jug. If you miss jug, its a fun cartoon fall: both hand are flailing in space while your feet remain on a huge "cave" bucket.

From here, you have done (almost) churning sky, (still 13a, so go figure that one), try to get a rest, because then its a full sprint for the ozone anchors (about 30 more feet and two hard clips with a few more cruxes). Great fun, lots of types of climbing, few painful holds, lots of endurance, adn great finish to the anchors (and have fun on the final clip!)

Location

above churning in the wake

Protection

bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
Yeah, Jon. It basically adds a new crux. Had to find different beta.. I use a small crimp left of the broken hold with my left hand then gastone the broken hold with right hand. It's like a slopey bad hold now instead of a pocket. Nov 6, 2017
Oh dear... I already thought that was the hardest bit there Oct 23, 2017
Re-update: I went up Ozone today and the aforementioned broken hold broke A LOT more. Significantly worse now. fml Oct 20, 2017
Update on Ozone: yesterday 10/18/17 another hold broke. It's the decent three finger pocket just below the second draw in Ozone (just above the traverse from the jug after Sky crux). I got my fingers in there (on the go) and a piece of rock about an inch and a half wide broke from inside the pocket. So you can get your fingers further into the hold now but it's quite a bit more slopey than it used to be. I would say the hold is slightly worse and we can now officially call this route 5.13b+++
I also replaced all the worn down scary biners with new steel biners. Oct 19, 2017
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
Today I broke the hold off the last crux lockoff at the last bolt on ozone. It was a nice flat incut crimper and now it is definitely worse, but the move still goes the same way. If this thing didn't feel like 13c before, it is definitely coming closer to that now! Mar 4, 2017
i agree this feels like standard 13b and much easier than fish, and waste case. May 6, 2014
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
I sense some grade creep on this one. Always thought it was standard 13b. In no way is this a hair easier than Vicious Fish. Apr 8, 2014