Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,065 total · 26/month
Shared By: Andrew Hunzicker on Jul 23, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

this route is part 3 of the churning series: first climb churning in the wake (13a), then do some fun and weird moves off the anchor (after a nice rest) followed by a trickly clip. continue on past another mild crux, clip a few more, then do a hard crux (tiny crimp for left, mono for right) and quick pop for jug. If you miss jug, its a fun cartoon fall: both hand are flailing in space while your feet remain on a huge "cave" bucket.

From here, you have done (almost) churning sky, (still 13a, so go figure that one), try to get a rest, because then its a full sprint for the ozone anchors (about 30 more feet and two hard clips with a few more cruxes). Great fun, lots of types of climbing, few painful holds, lots of endurance, adn great finish to the anchors (and have fun on the final clip!)

Location

above churning in the wake

Protection

bolts

Photos

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Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
I sense some grade creep on this one. Always thought it was standard 13b. In no way is this a hair easier than Vicious Fish. Apr 8, 2014
Andrew Hunzicker
  5.13b
Andrew Hunzicker  
  5.13b
i agree this feels like standard 13b and much easier than fish, and waste case. May 6, 2014
CritConrad
Bend, OR
 
CritConrad   Bend, OR
 
Today I broke the hold off the last crux lockoff at the last bolt on ozone. It was a nice flat incut crimper and now it is definitely worse, but the move still goes the same way. If this thing didn't feel like 13c before, it is definitely coming closer to that now! Mar 4, 2017
austin bullard
Somewhere
austin bullard   Somewhere
Update on Ozone: yesterday 10/18/17 another hold broke. It's the decent three finger pocket just below the second draw in Ozone (just above the traverse from the jug after Sky crux). I got my fingers in there (on the go) and a piece of rock about an inch and a half wide broke from inside the pocket. So you can get your fingers further into the hold now but it's quite a bit more slopey than it used to be. I would say the hold is slightly worse and we can now officially call this route 5.13b+++
I also replaced all the worn down scary biners with new steel biners. Oct 19, 2017
austin bullard
Somewhere
austin bullard   Somewhere
Re-update: I went up Ozone today and the aforementioned broken hold broke A LOT more. Significantly worse now. fml Oct 20, 2017
Jon Rhoderick
Redmond, OR
Jon Rhoderick   Redmond, OR
Oh dear... I already thought that was the hardest bit there Oct 23, 2017
austin bullard
Somewhere
austin bullard   Somewhere
Yeah, Jon. It basically adds a new crux. Had to find different beta.. I use a small crimp left of the broken hold with my left hand then gastone the broken hold with right hand. It's like a slopey bad hold now instead of a pocket. Nov 6, 2017
T K
  5.13b
T K  
  5.13b
The clipping hold in the traverse that broke is still a worthy incut sidepull. Making it the first thank god hold after the difficult "grains of rice for feet" traverse. As for the crux, I found a different sequence that requires cirque du soleil flexibility, but maybe suits sub 5'7 climbers a bit better now that the incut crimp is a memory. Dec 13, 2017
danieljordan
Portland, OR
  5.13b
danieljordan   Portland, OR
  5.13b
The comments for this route have devolved into a confessional booth for broken holds. Update: Smith Rock still petrified mud Jan 29, 2018