Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Anonymous, April 27, 2006
Page Views: 3,713 total · 30/month
Shared By: smithygreg on Oct 28, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


123 Opinions

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Description

This route is to the immediate right of Lions Jaw. Traverse in from the left to the first bolt and then climb the bolted face. Use the dull arĂȘte with your right hand but stay to the left. If you are on bad rock, then get back left.

Location

Left end of the Morning Glory Wall...It's the bolted face just to the right of Lion's Jaw...Before the bulge that is Tammy Bakers Face

Protection

6 Bolts to the anchors

Photos

donggua
Corvallis, Oregon
donggua   Corvallis, Oregon
just watch the loose rocks on the right side of the arete, some people on the ground might get hurt if you grab too hard and break one. staying left and dont touch that is a smart choice Jun 19, 2013
Jon Sykes
Sherman Oaks, Ca
Jon Sykes   Sherman Oaks, Ca
The bolt anchor on the left is now so loose it can be twisted without resistance in either direction. I feel like if I would have pulled on the bolt itself it would just pop out. Aug 22, 2013
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
If you like garbage rock and pockets full of bird poo this is the 5.9 to do. Jan 9, 2014
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
I tightened the left anchor bolt today, but it'll continue to work loose until someone hangs chains on the hangers: when you thread the hangers and rap, it torques the hanger counterclockwise. I'm visiting from Rumney, so I didn't bring the gear to fix it right. If you want to climb this route and there aren't chains on it, bring a wrench or a medium stopper to back up with in the crack.

All that said, it was a nice route if you stay off the rotten stuff to the right. Mar 29, 2014
George W  
 
It's a fun route--I don't recall anything loose or any bird shit. Oct 20, 2016
Byron Marohn
Portland, OR
  5.9
Byron Marohn   Portland, OR
  5.9
This route is pretty fun if you stay on the face - clean, solid rock. As others mentioned in years past, the left anchor bolt is still loose - I hand tightened it as much as I could. There are chains on this route now, probably just needs an actual wrench to tighten it enough that it won't come loose for a while.

Both anchor bolts seemed plenty good though - I rapped off them without a second thought. This one is definitely worth doing, especially if the alternative is waiting in line. Oct 23, 2016
Erick Santos
Los Angeles, CA
 
Erick Santos   Los Angeles, CA
 
With other classics on this wall, I think this route is overlooked. Did not notice any loose rocks (as I stayed on the left of the arete) or bird shiz. Staying to the left of the arete in my opinion keeps it at 5.9 rating using the arete, a good left food and a right foot smear. Had friends lead it before me staying right of the arete and made I look funky and harder than a 5.9. Good versatile set of moves used to get to the tops. Aug 25, 2017
Zeb Millslagle
Bend, OR
Zeb Millslagle   Bend, OR
Pretty good route, but went to climb it today and the third bolt appears to be missing so the climb to the fourth bolt is fairly run out (forgot to count the bolts so I'm not 100% sure about this). Probably would avoid it right now if you aren't a very comfortable 5.9+ climber. Jul 29, 2018
Daniel Butters
Park City, UT
 
Daniel Butters   Park City, UT
 
The multiple rocks on right side arete sounds a bit hollow, might break off at some point. Oct 13, 2018
Gwillim
Milwaukie, Or
  5.9
Gwillim   Milwaukie, Or
  5.9
  • ***NOTICE**** The third bolt/hanger is missing. If you lead this, a fall while clipping what is now the third bolt is most likely a groundfall.
Oct 29, 2018
NickRas  
Appears the left anchor bolt has worked loose again - I didn't have the gear or know how to tighten the bolt myself, sorry. Just a heads up! 5 days ago