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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Anonymous, April 27, 2006
Page Views: 3,180 total, 29/month
Shared By: smithygreg on Oct 28, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This route is to the immediate right of Lions Jaw. Traverse in from the left to the first bolt and then climb the bolted face. Use the dull arĂȘte with your right hand but stay to the left. If you are on bad rock, then get back left.

Location

Left end of the Morning Glory Wall...It's the bolted face just to the right of Lion's Jaw...Before the bulge that is Tammy Bakers Face

Protection

6 Bolts to the anchors

Photos

Erick Santos
Los Angeles, CA
 
Erick Santos   Los Angeles, CA
 
With other classics on this wall, I think this route is overlooked. Did not notice any loose rocks (as I stayed on the left of the arete) or bird shiz. Staying to the left of the arete in my opinion keeps it at 5.9 rating using the arete, a good left food and a right foot smear. Had friends lead it before me staying right of the arete and made I look funky and harder than a 5.9. Good versatile set of moves used to get to the tops. Aug 25, 2017
Byron Marohn
Portland, OR
  5.9
Byron Marohn   Portland, OR
  5.9
This route is pretty fun if you stay on the face - clean, solid rock. As others mentioned in years past, the left anchor bolt is still loose - I hand tightened it as much as I could. There are chains on this route now, probably just needs an actual wrench to tighten it enough that it won't come loose for a while.

Both anchor bolts seemed plenty good though - I rapped off them without a second thought. This one is definitely worth doing, especially if the alternative is waiting in line. Oct 23, 2016
George W  
 
It's a fun route--I don't recall anything loose or any bird shit. Oct 20, 2016
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
Peter Jackson   Rumney, NH
I tightened the left anchor bolt today, but it'll continue to work loose until someone hangs chains on the hangers: when you thread the hangers and rap, it torques the hanger counterclockwise. I'm visiting from Rumney, so I didn't bring the gear to fix it right. If you want to climb this route and there aren't chains on it, bring a wrench or a medium stopper to back up with in the crack.

All that said, it was a nice route if you stay off the rotten stuff to the right. Mar 29, 2014
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
If you like garbage rock and pockets full of bird poo this is the 5.9 to do. Jan 9, 2014
Jon Sykes
Sherman Oaks, Ca
Jon Sykes   Sherman Oaks, Ca
The bolt anchor on the left is now so loose it can be twisted without resistance in either direction. I feel like if I would have pulled on the bolt itself it would just pop out. Aug 22, 2013
donggua
Corvallis, Oregon
donggua   Corvallis, Oregon
just watch the loose rocks on the right side of the arete, some people on the ground might get hurt if you grab too hard and break one. staying left and dont touch that is a smart choice Jun 19, 2013