Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tom Bauman, Bob Bauman, 1967
Page Views: 8,289 total · 54/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on May 1, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


237 Opinions

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Description

This is actually a 3 pitch route, but almost no one climbs past the 1st pitch due to the last two pitches being chossy unprotected chimneys. This covers the first pitch, which is a very good route that borders on classic. The first 3/4 of the route is in a solid dihedral. The finish is pulling a small roof that isn't harder than the moves below.

Location

Left side of Morning Glory Wall in a dihedral right of Tammy Baker's Face and the Peanut.

Protection

Gear to 1 1/2 inches. Rap Anchors

Photos

DWech
Fort Collins
 
DWech   Fort Collins
 
Nice, solid 5.8 lead with nuts and chocks. For a first 5.8 gear lead -- it doesn't get much better. Avoid the upper pitches. Jun 1, 2010
max huecksteadt
Portland, OR
  5.8
max huecksteadt   Portland, OR
  5.8
This one will eat all the nuts you can take (you might as well not even bring cams). Great beginner trad lead- you can't worry with those bomber finger locks! May 28, 2012
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.8
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.8
Pro is good and you can practically stitch it all the way up to the mini roof. May 4, 2015
kablammajamma
  5.8
kablammajamma  
  5.8
a #1 c4 is perfect to protect the roof; or, for bonus points, use a brown tricam! May 4, 2015
morgoth70
Bountiful, UT
  5.8
morgoth70   Bountiful, UT
  5.8
Classic Smith dihedral with sustained, fun 5.8 moves with an exciting, stemmy crux. Eats gear, lots of places for a rest if you need it. Don't ruin a great climb by doing the upper pitches. Jun 17, 2015
Franck Vee
  5.9-
Franck Vee  
  5.9-
Good easy trad lead. Protects really well especially if you use both cracks. The roof is a bit intimidating for someone not so used to trad lead (pulling roof on trad isn't something I do often), but it can be protected really well and the move is super easy.

There's always a good stance to place pro coming up soon - so no need to be pumping out trying to place pros on bad stances... Jul 12, 2017
Cody Kaemmerlen
Encinitas, CA
 
Cody Kaemmerlen   Encinitas, CA
 
Agree with other commenters - super enjoyable route that eats pro and can be stitched as needed to the comfort level of newer trad climbers. The roof was a fun way to end a great climb. Apr 23, 2018