Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Taco Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tom Bauman, Bob Bauman, 1967
Page Views: 7,762 total · 52/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on May 1, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


216 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is actually a 3 pitch route, but almost no one climbs past the 1st pitch due to the last two pitches being chossy unprotected chimneys. This covers the first pitch, which is a very good route that borders on classic. The first 3/4 of the route is in a solid dihedral. The finish is pulling a small roof that isn't harder than the moves below.

Location

Left side of Morning Glory Wall in a dihedral right of Tammy Baker's Face and the Peanut.

Protection

Gear to 1 1/2 inches. Rap Anchors

Photos

DWech
Fort Collins
 
DWech   Fort Collins
 
Nice, solid 5.8 lead with nuts and chocks. For a first 5.8 gear lead -- it doesn't get much better. Avoid the upper pitches. Jun 1, 2010
max huecksteadt
Bozeman
  5.8
max huecksteadt   Bozeman
  5.8
This one will eat all the nuts you can take (you might as well not even bring cams). Great beginner trad lead- you can't worry with those bomber finger locks! May 28, 2012
Obi
Portland, OR
  5.8
Obi   Portland, OR
  5.8
Pro is good and you can practically stitch it all the way up to the mini roof. May 4, 2015
kablammajamma
  5.8
kablammajamma  
  5.8
a #1 c4 is perfect to protect the roof; or, for bonus points, use a brown tricam! May 4, 2015
morgoth70
Bountiful, UT
  5.8
morgoth70   Bountiful, UT
  5.8
Classic Smith dihedral with sustained, fun 5.8 moves with an exciting, stemmy crux. Eats gear, lots of places for a rest if you need it. Don't ruin a great climb by doing the upper pitches. Jun 17, 2015
Franck Vee
  5.9-
Franck Vee  
  5.9-
Good easy trad lead. Protects really well especially if you use both cracks. The roof is a bit intimidating for someone not so used to trad lead (pulling roof on trad isn't something I do often), but it can be protected really well and the move is super easy.

There's always a good stance to place pro coming up soon - so no need to be pumping out trying to place pros on bad stances... Jul 12, 2017
Cody Kaemmerlen
Encinitas, CA
 
Cody Kaemmerlen   Encinitas, CA
 
Agree with other commenters - super enjoyable route that eats pro and can be stitched as needed to the comfort level of newer trad climbers. The roof was a fun way to end a great climb. Apr 23, 2018

More About Lion's Jaw

Printer-Friendly