Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: David & Dee Tvedt , 1994
Page Views: 4,929 total · 31/month
Shared By: ScottH on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


149 Opinions

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Description

Morning Sky is the natural extension of Gumby. After climbing through the technical and balancy crux of Gumby, find a rest in the giant huecos and shake out. Instead of following the huecos up and right (5.easy), continue straight up on small pockets and crimps. The climbing on this upper section is pumpy and technical, and similar in character to the start of Gumby. This is one of my favorite routes on the Morning Glory Wall.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

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Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR
 
Bryson Slothower   Portland, OR
 
anyone have info on the bolted route that continues above Morning Light? I think it ends near or at the top of Pitch 2 of Zebra Zion. Mar 22, 2006
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Bryson, here Jan 12, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
 
Really fun and sustained. Bit of a sandbag at 10c. Bottom has some hard thin moves and the top stays on you. Sep 4, 2014
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.10c
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.10c
I feel like this extension is actually easier than the Gumby start. Great moves. Dec 31, 2014
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
The moves through the first 2 bolts are the hardest of the route. Apr 27, 2016
Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
  5.10d
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
  5.10d
Another sandbag vote: the crux was the first two bolts, which are supposedly the 10b crux of Gumby. This route was probably much easier 20 years ago when the holds were fresh, but now it's greasy and polished. For comparison, I thought this route was harder than /Buffalo Power/ 10c, /Ryan's Arete/ 10c, /Cure for Pain/ 10d, and /Caffeine Free Finish/ "11a". Stick clip recommended! Sep 26, 2017