Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Alan Watts
Page Views: 2,157 total · 33/month
Shared By: Ryan Palo on Nov 18, 2013 with improvements by Kevin MP
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Smith Rock's version of an 8,000 meter peak, Main Line rises high above the Morning Glory wall. It begins by climbing the start(and crux) of Energy Crisis, then traverses left into a shallow scoop just right of Lion's Chair. You'll find technical & highly interesting stemming for several bolts (main crux), followed by a pumping 5.11 crack. At the 100 ft mark you get another large rest, followed by the redpoint crux: a butthole puckering 50 ft slab of flawless red stone. From here to the summit felt similar to climbing Watts Tots.

A highly involved, but worthwhile endeavor.

Location

Just left of Magic Light.

Protection

14 bolts. Use long slings.

Convience minded climbers should consider using a 90+ meter rope. Otherwise use the rap station at the 100 ft mark.

Photos

Really great route and good description Ryan! What a long and varied route! The only downside is the "energy crisis" start. A more pure and direct line (not to mention much more fun) would start on the 5.10 perfect dihedral to lower left of scoop. Other than the start, this is a 5 star! Dec 16, 2013
Steven Dimmitt
  5.13a
Steven Dimmitt  
  5.13a
80m rope got me down with ~10ft to spare. Be sure to tie a knot in the end! Nov 27, 2017
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.12d
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.12d
To understand the grading on this and Energy Crisis one needs to execute the exact same mental gymnastics required to comprehend the grading on Cool Ranch Flavor and its extension. The beginning crux of the '12b' is far more difficult than anything on the subsequent 37 meters of climbing. Somehow the rest of the route bumps the rating up to 13a despite many excellent rests and generally easier movement. Think V5-6 to 12a/b with numerous good stances sprinkled in between the cruxes.

Also, I believe it's Mane Line. Dec 30, 2017