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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,191 total, 43/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 24, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Shares the first couple of bolts with Overboard. Another great warmup if you only climb the lower 5.11b pitch as most people do. A thin and pumpy crux finishes off this fine pitch

Protection

9 bolts to a bolted anchor, or keep going through 7 more to the top of the second pitch

Photos

donggua
Corvallis, Oregon
donggua   Corvallis, Oregon
havent climb the whole thing yet because 12b is a little bit beyond me. Only made it to the first set of anchor, feels like an easy 11 or extremely pumpy 10d, super super fun Sep 11, 2013
Phenomenal to the first set of anchors. Great movement, burly, felt harder than Yak Crack at Red Rocks... Aug 29, 2013
MikaelBrem
Beaverton, OR
  5.12b PG13
MikaelBrem   Beaverton, OR
  5.12b PG13
I loved the first pitch when I was just a boy. Need to go back & finish the 2nd pitch Feb 7, 2013
CritConrad
Bend, OR
  5.12a
CritConrad   Bend, OR
  5.12a
The extension above the first anchor has four bolts and an anchor and adds an exciting bit of climbing with enough space between bolts to make you pay attention to what you're doing. Still holds its reign in my opinion of the best 12a on the Tuff that i've done....so far! Nov 8, 2012
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
 
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
 
Going to the second anchor is one of the most fun .12a pitches in the park!!! So good! It is a long pumpy route that you need to get on if you climb 5.12! Jan 30, 2012
Mark Gibson
Seattle, WA
Mark Gibson   Seattle, WA
To the first anchors is 11a. The crux comes in the lower/middle as you traverse left on crimps. Cool moves through the crux yield to absolutely enormous jugs nearly all the way to the anchors. When the holds start to peeter out near the anchors, think sideways. A good climb and the most popular 11a at Smith. Mar 25, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.12b
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.12b
If you've ever wondered why Watts gives this route only 2 stars, try the extension. Apparently 4 stars plus zero stars divided by 2, equals 2 stars. A new anchor has been added on the extension that actually shortens the original 12b pitch by 2 bolts. Fear not, all the original hardware is still in place; its still entirely possible to climb the original sketchfest, but its no longer mandatory. The new anchor allows for TR-ing with a 70m rope, and is located at the end of the 'good' climbing, just below the upper crux. If you climb to the new anchor the route is a stiff 12a. To get full 12b credit you'll need to brave the minefield of sketchy knobs and ancient spinner SMC bolts that lead to the highest anchor. The section up to the 12a anchor has pretty good rock, but its basically thin crack climbing except for a few fun, juggy moves just below the anchor. The section immediately above the 12a anchor is very thin with no chalk whatsoever. There are many holds, but they're all small. If you veer more than a foot or so off the bolt line you'll likely pull something off. Of course, that might happen regardless of where you climb. Nov 27, 2006
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
I would say the first pitch crux comes lower down with the traverse and thin crimpy sequence afterwards. The pump gets alot of people at the top but the moves are definately not thin there.

I have maybe seen one ascent of the second pitch. The first pitch is one of the best of the grade at Smith though. Nov 8, 2006
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
 
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
 
A.K.A. "Traffic Light" due to the nonstop traffic on the first pitch. Oct 22, 2006