Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,600 total · 102/month
Shared By: Nathan Scherneck on May 10, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


147 Opinions

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Description

This is the popular first pitch of the two pitch route Magic Light. It shares the first few bolts with Overboard, but veers left where Overboard goes right. Lots of good holds with a couple crux traverses makes this a less than sustained Smith 11.

Location

Right side of Morning Glory Wall

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
  5.11b/c
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
  5.11b/c
Great route, and tricky onsight for 5.11- would probably be .11b/c at basically any sport climbing area in the country other than Smith. Aug 14, 2015
Paul Knill
Bend, OR
5.11a
Paul Knill   Bend, OR
5.11a
Excellent moves, fun, challenging for me, love this pitch! Nov 14, 2015
Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
I pulled a bail draw off the first bolt of this route on 1/26/16. If you want it back identify it and let me know. I'd also like to know why it was hanging on the first bolt. Jan 27, 2016
ckersch
  5.11b/c
ckersch  
  5.11b/c
Felt harder than Vomit Launch or Cool Ranch, but maybe I've got bad beta? Cool juggy climbing with a hard crux after the 4th(?) bolt and an easier crux sequence before the last bolt. The first crux revolved around cranking on small, slimy crimps that probably felt good 100,000 ascents ago, and detracted from the quality of the route. Oct 9, 2017
Keith Earley
Portland, OR
  5.11b
Keith Earley   Portland, OR
  5.11b
What a gross route. Worried that every route at Smith will be like this in 50 or so years. There are way more quality 11s in the park. certainly didn't live up to the hype (or the lines) Apr 2, 2018
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
It's important to note that cleaning this route requires some planning to prevent swinging left into the tree after pulling the first draw. Some options include:
-Have the last person in the group clean on toprope
-Ask the party that is waiting in line behind you to clean the first draw and toss it down on their way up
-Lower down and clean the first 4 draws by climbing up, so when you reach the 4th bolt, you are above the level of the tree and the swing is clean
-Clean the first draw from a good stance, then downclimbing the first few moves with a spot or assist Apr 8, 2018