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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Taco Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zebra Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,449 total · 104/month
Shared By: Nathan Scherneck on May 10, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This is the popular first pitch of the two pitch route Magic Light. It shares the first few bolts with Overboard, but veers left where Overboard goes right. Lots of good holds with a couple crux traverses makes this a less than sustained Smith 11.

Location

Right side of Morning Glory Wall

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
  5.11b/c
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
  5.11b/c
Great route, and tricky onsight for 5.11- would probably be .11b/c at basically any sport climbing area in the country other than Smith. Aug 14, 2015
Paul Knill
Bend, OR
5.11a
Paul Knill   Bend, OR
5.11a
Excellent moves, fun, challenging for me, love this pitch! Nov 14, 2015
Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
I pulled a bail draw off the first bolt of this route on 1/26/16. If you want it back identify it and let me know. I'd also like to know why it was hanging on the first bolt. Jan 27, 2016
ckersch
  5.11b/c
ckersch  
  5.11b/c
Felt harder than Vomit Launch or Cool Ranch, but maybe I've got bad beta? Cool juggy climbing with a hard crux after the 4th(?) bolt and an easier crux sequence before the last bolt. The first crux revolved around cranking on small, slimy crimps that probably felt good 100,000 ascents ago, and detracted from the quality of the route. Oct 9, 2017
Keith Earley
Portland, OR
  5.11b
Keith Earley   Portland, OR
  5.11b
What a gross route. Worried that every route at Smith will be like this in 50 or so years. There are way more quality 11s in the park. certainly didn't live up to the hype (or the lines) Apr 2, 2018
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
It's important to note that cleaning this route requires some planning to prevent swinging left into the tree after pulling the first draw. Some options include:
-Have the last person in the group clean on toprope
-Ask the party that is waiting in line behind you to clean the first draw and toss it down on their way up
-Lower down and clean the first 4 draws by climbing up, so when you reach the 4th bolt, you are above the level of the tree and the swing is clean
-Clean the first draw from a good stance, then downclimbing the first few moves with a spot or assist Apr 8, 2018

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