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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 34,270 total, 238/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 25, 2006 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is THE multipitch line at Smith!!!

Pitch 1: The first pitch has many variations from 5.7 to 5.11. These lines share the first pitch anchor: Zebra Direct(5.11a), Zebra Seam (5.11d), and Gumby (5.10b)
Take any of these lines to the first anchor.

Pitch 2: (10.b) Move straight up into the right-facing dihedral. This pitch is traditionally thought of as the crux of the climb for both its technical moves off the belay and endurance required on this long pitch. Belay at a ledge on the left at a bolted anchor.

Pitch 3: (5.9) Continue up the corner for a few feet and make an exposed traverse out onto the face to the right.(pro may be placed in a few pods here but watch rope drag on this pitch) Keep moving up and right until you reach a roof. Be careful on this pitch so as not to rain rocks down on the popular areas below.

Pitch 4: (5.9) Climb this fantasticly steep and juggy flake to the summit. A truly spectacular pitch with fun moves and superb position.

This climb will get you on top of the main formation at smith. Descend one of the gullies to the right (east) or take a more scenic descent to the NW around monkey face.

Protection

Wires, cams to 3.5 inches, long slings

Dylan Demyanek
Fort Collins, CO
Dylan Demyanek   Fort Collins, CO
Are there bolted anchors at the end of pitch 3? Sep 27, 2017
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
  5.10b
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
  5.10b
I agree with the poster, this is THE multipitch at Smith. Easy approach, simple descent, and fun climbing throughout with a view!
First time I climbed it, we started with Gumby which I did not enjoy. Next time we made the longer traverse by starting at Five Gallon or The Outsiders (5.7) which was worlds more enjoyable.
The crux comes quick off the belay on P2 and you just get to enjoy the long splitter that follows up to the ledge.
I highly recommend running it out or MEGA extending your pieces on P3. The unprotected traverse zig zags you back almost above the original corner, but placing protection immediately after the traverse will leave you with unbearable rope drag. If you're seriously worried about protecting yourself, there is an anchor a couple moves further right of the traverse which you could make into a new pitch split.
I found the feet on P4 to be lackluster to begin with but it eventually widens out for the better. There were options for a C4 #4, but it's not needed; might as well shave off some weight. Jul 28, 2017
Brett Yost
Bend, Oregon
  5.9
Brett Yost   Bend, Oregon
  5.9
Anybody know the history of the chipped footholds on the last pitch? Dec 4, 2016
Richard Denker
Portland OR
Richard Denker   Portland OR
Because of hanging belays break it up as either swing leads or one leads pitches 1 & 4 while the other leads 2 & 3. Recommend a double set of cams from .75 to 3 Camalot plus a set of nuts or hexes.

First pitch is a 5.7 to 5.11a sport (or a 5.11d trad) to a hanging belay. This starting pitch ties up very popular routes so start early and be fast.

Second pitch has two parts; the first is a very difficult 5.10a/b, made difficult because the rounded right face is coated with essence of rubber, sweat and chalk. There is a fix piece just before the crux. If the crux is too difficult, drop down from the fix pro (about the distance you will fall if you fail to make the 5.10a), traverse a short distance right to Lion Zion just above a bolt (not easy/possible to clip), climb up and then traverse left back into the seam just above the crux to another fix piece. Except for the fix pro this variation is unprotected, but short and only 5.8. The second part is a long crack/dihedral 5.8 to a ledge with anchor to the left.

The third pitch follow the seam/corner up for about 30 to 40 feet (easy and protectable). Then do an unprotected 5.8 traverse to the right until a easy wide crack is reach, follow the crack up until a semi-hanging belay. Note the easy wide crack has loose rock in it, so be careful not to dislodge any and drop them on the people below.

Fantastic fourth pitch begins with a horizontal hand crack to the left. This short traverse is slippery with bird shit, sweat and chalk. Then an outstanding crack leads up to a bench, where around to the left is a short unprotected 5.6 leading to the anchors. Walk off. Jun 16, 2016
ARMoss
  5.10a/b
ARMoss  
  5.10a/b
Seems like this may always be the case based on some of the comments here, but there are some BIG, rotten flakes near the anchors of the traverse pitch that you really ought to watch out for and avoid. Knock one loose and they could easily kill anyone they hit at the base. Would love to see them safely trundled. Feb 16, 2016
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
5.10b
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
5.10b
Had to bail before the final money pitch due to weather. Took 4 raps with a 60m single rope. Be super careful on the loose slab of P3... I was almost killed by rockfall knocked loose by the team ahead of us. Easy to link P1 and P2 if you are a strong leader. Apr 5, 2015
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
Not sure why this line is heralded as such a must do. There's a lot more interesting climbing at smith in my opinion. Mar 19, 2015
Drederek
  5.10a/b
Drederek  
  5.10a/b
Don't go to the summit at the end of pitch 4, stop atop the Lions chair, plug those two 3" cams in the wide crack at the back and enjoy one of the most awesome belays anywhere! Aug 21, 2013
the professor
  5.9
the professor  
  5.9
If you insist on staying in the crack at the small roof crux on P2, then it's 5.10. BUT, a small detour to the right has 5.9 pockets past the roof and then go back to the crack. Jun 18, 2013
Chris Sepic
Bend, OR
 
Chris Sepic   Bend, OR
 
I wasn't sure where the traverse was on p3 and went a bit above it, but then down climbed an ended up doing it right. Just follow the chalk. While the traverse is run out, the rock is really solid. You have to commit to the traverse (and do 75% of it) before you'll be able to see the 5.6 crack. Mar 1, 2013
Ming
  5.10- R
Ming  
  5.10- R
Pitch 2 is a heady lead and solid R - it's not just an ankle breaker - it's a solid hip breaker with that swing if you fall on the traverse for sure. I know 5.8 to 5.5/6 slab sounds easy but it is a very serious lead with harsh consequences for failure. The 5.5/6 slab part has very poor protection with shallow protection of poor quality rock so you are essentially soloing at the 15 feet point of the traverse.

We did Lion Zion (5.10c/d) as our first pitch - and I must say my toes are mad at me from all the continuous edging I had to do. It outright hurts! The traverse over to the top of the pillar is super easy.

Pitch 3 is absolutely spectacular G-rated fun exposed climbing. I find it to be as easy as the traverse. Call them both 5.8, or both 5.9. It's somewhere in that neighborhood.

It's awesome that all 3 pitches offer so many different experiences! My favorite multipitch route at Smith Rock! Oct 26, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
First pitch is stellar, easy 2 move lieback .10 move into the corner, than super enjoyable jamming with great feet. Pitch 2's traverse is a bit spicy as the chalk isn't super obvious and its a pendulum back into the dihedral should you peel. The crack above has gear that is well, not awesome but adequate. Pitch 3 is the best 5.9 pitch I've done anywhere. Aug 21, 2012
Mike Rowley
Boise, Idaho
 
Mike Rowley   Boise, Idaho
 
Why do I see all the ratings at Smith being upgraded? The first crack pitch is def .10a. I can understand the .10b rating if you start with gumby, but nothin harder than .10a in the crack. One of my favorite climbs. I can see it from my bedroom window every morning! Dec 26, 2011
Erik Endert
all over
Erik Endert   all over
Is the second pitch 10b? I was told it was 10a? I'm also suprised it gets a grade III. Not trying to argue, just curious if this is the general consensus. Doesn't really mater, great climb for sure. Sep 22, 2011
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
 
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
 
Thanks Phillip, I changed the rating to .11d, it's been awhile since I did the seam. Jun 27, 2007
Philip Scoles
bum fuck, Oregon
  5.10b
Philip Scoles   bum fuck, Oregon
  5.10b
Please dont be up-grading routes, Zebra Seam is 5.11d. Thanks Apr 16, 2007
rpc
 
rpc  
 
"Why this line stands empty as the sport routes below are swarming with people is beyond me"
Because you either climbed on a weekday or got lucky :)
Spring/fall weekends see a crowd on this one. Looks like you sampled some of Smith's best (think my wife and I ran into you guys in the L. Gorge). Oct 27, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Great line. Great climb. The 2nd pitch corner was stellar fingers to awkward, but enjoyable hands. The traverse on the 3rd pitch was no big deal, and there is gear where you need it on the dirty 5.6 slab above. The final pitch up the headwall flake is not-to-be-missed. Crazy fun climbing with jaw dropping exposure.

Highly recommend. Why this line stands empty as the sport routes below are swarming with people is beyond me.....

Easy descent down the Cocaine Gully (first gully on climbers right) Oct 22, 2006