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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall

5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cat Scan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Churning In The Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Da Kine Corner S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Exile On Main Street S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Gumby S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lion Zion S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Main Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Morning Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Ozone Hole S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Sign of the Times S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tammy Baker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Waste Case S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,277 total, 30/month
Shared By: David Tvedt on Apr 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

While this is certainly a one-sequence wonder route, it's a lot of fun. The crux section is just before the anchors and involves technical long reach moves. It however can be cheated by staying left in the shallow dihedral and risking a pendulum fall in ~10- terrain. The moves up to the crux are on a much easier pocketed seam, but they are still enjoyable.

Location

Just right of Nine Gallon Buckets and left of Taco Chips. Starts in a pocketed seam.

Protection

Bolts. Rap Anchors.
it took me foreva to figure out the bottom crux then I pulled the rope and fired through the extension. I took a mean dump on this route because I'm the boss! Feb 3, 2012
The extension to cool ranch is really quite enjoyable. The rock isn't great (yet) but the moves are really varied and enjoyable. From the first set of anchors fight through a perplexing sequence to gain the shallow stemming box. The first bolt after the first set of anchors may be hard to clip depending on how you approach the moves. Some "hidden" feet may help you pull the moves after the first set of anchors. The rest of the climb is continuously technical featuring some long reaches. The route felt like 11d to me and the overall crux is probably the bouldery crux before the first set of anchors. So if you can do those moves you might as well take it to the top. Dec 14, 2008
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
  5.12a
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
  5.12a
A five bolt extension was recently added. The rock quality improves dramatically from the first anchor. Move through a broken double arete system to the second set of anchors. Mar 10, 2007