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Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3.7 from 260
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (g) Morning Glory Wall
This is THE multipitch line at Smith!!!
Pitch 1: The first pitch has many variations from 5.7 to 5.11. These lines share the first pitch anchor: Zebra Direct(5.11a), Zebra Seam (5.11d), and Gumby (5.10b) Take any of these lines to the first anchor.
Pitch 2: (10.b) Move straight up into the right-facing dihedral. This pitch is traditionally thought of as the crux of the climb for both its technical moves off the belay and endurance required on this long pitch. Belay at a ledge on the left at a bolted anchor.
Pitch 3: (5.9) Continue up the corner for a few feet and make an exposed traverse out onto the face to the right.(pro may be placed in a few pods here but watch rope drag on this pitch) Keep moving up and right until you reach a roof. Be careful on this pitch so as not to rain rocks down on the popular areas below.
Pitch 4: (5.9) Climb this fantasticly steep and juggy flake to the summit. A truly spectacular pitch with fun moves and superb position.
This climb will get you on top of the main formation at smith. Descend one of the gullies to the right (east) or take a more scenic descent to the NW around monkey face.