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Routes in (g) Morning Glory Wall
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5 Gallon Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Anonymity S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cat Scan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Choss in America S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Churning in the Ozone S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Churning in the Sky S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Churning in the Wake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cool Ranch Flavor S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Cool Ranch Flavor Extension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Da Kine Corner S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dandy Line S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Doritos S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Energy Crisis S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fun Churning Buttress Linkups S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Gumby S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Kings of Rap S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Light on the Path S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lion Zion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lion Zion (Extension) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Lion's Chair T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Lion's Chair Start T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Lion's Jaw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Magic Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Magic Light Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mane Line S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Morning Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Nacho Cheese S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Nine Gallon Buckets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Outsiders, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Overboard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Oxygen S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Ozone Hole S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Sign of the Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sketch Pad S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Taco Chips S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Taco Times S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tammy Bakker's Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Vicious Fish S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Waste Case S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Zebra Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Zebra Seam S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Zion T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Alan Watts (April 1988) |
| Page Views: | 4,647 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Nov 21, 2009 |
| Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
Waste Case includes climbing from both Kings of Rap (12d) and Vicious Fish (13c/d). The beta is very complex and the route is challenging for the grade. The varied nature of the route gives a decided advantage to well rounded climbers.
The easiest way to start this route is to traverse in from the right side from a large boulder. Stem on the boulder and do a couple hard bouldery cross moves to reach the first bolt. These are likely the most strenuous moves of the route. If you spend the time to work out the moves you'll probably stumble on a sequence that is doable and not too awkward. Be careful executing a final lunge to a positive flake below the second bolt. A fall here would leave you close to the ground.
Enjoy some long aesthetic reaches between incut pockets as you traverse rightward to the third bolt of Kings of Rap. Follow a series of two and three finger pockets to a large roof. A long sling on the 6th bolt should prove helpful.
After clipping the 7th bolt prepare for a strenuous leftward exit of the roof. Try to shake out before the roof if possible. The roof moves can be bewildering, involving tenuous pockets and a really challenging left high step.
Once around the roof slap and claw your way up to a really good rest at the 9th bolt. You are now on the finishing arete of vicious fish. The last three bolts of the arete are really intriguing. One last insecure crux at the 11th bolt has been the scene of several blown redpoint attempts. Be prepared to do moves that are beyond your wildest dreams.
The easiest way to start this route is to traverse in from the right side from a large boulder. Stem on the boulder and do a couple hard bouldery cross moves to reach the first bolt. These are likely the most strenuous moves of the route. If you spend the time to work out the moves you'll probably stumble on a sequence that is doable and not too awkward. Be careful executing a final lunge to a positive flake below the second bolt. A fall here would leave you close to the ground.
Enjoy some long aesthetic reaches between incut pockets as you traverse rightward to the third bolt of Kings of Rap. Follow a series of two and three finger pockets to a large roof. A long sling on the 6th bolt should prove helpful.
After clipping the 7th bolt prepare for a strenuous leftward exit of the roof. Try to shake out before the roof if possible. The roof moves can be bewildering, involving tenuous pockets and a really challenging left high step.
Once around the roof slap and claw your way up to a really good rest at the 9th bolt. You are now on the finishing arete of vicious fish. The last three bolts of the arete are really intriguing. One last insecure crux at the 11th bolt has been the scene of several blown redpoint attempts. Be prepared to do moves that are beyond your wildest dreams.
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