Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Alan Watts (April 1988)
Page Views: 3,420 total · 26/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Nov 21, 2009
Admins: Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

Description

Waste Case includes climbing from both Kings of Rap (12d) and Vicious Fish (13c/d). The beta is very complex and the route is challenging for the grade. The varied nature of the route gives a decided advantage to well rounded climbers.

The easiest way to start this route is to traverse in from the right side from a large boulder. Stem on the boulder and do a couple hard bouldery cross moves to reach the first bolt. These are likely the most strenuous moves of the route. If you spend the time to work out the moves you'll probably stumble on a sequence that is doable and not too awkward. Be careful executing a final lunge to a positive flake below the second bolt. A fall here would leave you close to the ground.

Enjoy some long aesthetic reaches between incut pockets as you traverse rightward to the third bolt of Kings of Rap. Follow a series of two and three finger pockets to a large roof. A long sling on the 6th bolt should prove helpful.

After clipping the 7th bolt prepare for a strenuous leftward exit of the roof. Try to shake out before the roof if possible. The roof moves can be bewildering, involving tenuous pockets and a really challenging left high step.

Once around the roof slap and claw your way up to a really good rest at the 9th bolt. You are now on the finishing arete of vicious fish. The last three bolts of the arete are really intriguing. One last insecure crux at the 11th bolt has been the scene of several blown redpoint attempts. Be prepared to do moves that are beyond your wildest dreams.

Location

Located on the Churning Buttress just to the left of Kings of Rap.

Protection

11 bolts plus anchors

Photos