Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Alan Watts (April 1988)
Page Views: 3,012 total · 27/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Nov 21, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Waste Case includes climbing from both Kings of Rap (12d) and Vicious Fish (13c/d). The beta is very complex and the route is challenging for the grade. The varied nature of the route gives a decided advantage to well rounded climbers.

The easiest way to start this route is to traverse in from the right side from a large boulder. Stem on the boulder and do a couple hard bouldery cross moves to reach the first bolt. These are likely the most strenuous moves of the route. If you spend the time to work out the moves you'll probably stumble on a sequence that is doable and not too awkward. Be careful executing a final lunge to a positive flake below the second bolt. A fall here would leave you close to the ground.

Enjoy some long aesthetic reaches between incut pockets as you traverse rightward to the third bolt of Kings of Rap. Follow a series of two and three finger pockets to a large roof. A long sling on the 6th bolt should prove helpful.

After clipping the 7th bolt prepare for a strenuous leftward exit of the roof. Try to shake out before the roof if possible. The roof moves can be bewildering, involving tenuous pockets and a really challenging left high step.

Once around the roof slap and claw your way up to a really good rest at the 9th bolt. You are now on the finishing arete of vicious fish. The last three bolts of the arete are really intriguing. One last insecure crux at the 11th bolt has been the scene of several blown redpoint attempts. Be prepared to do moves that are beyond your wildest dreams.

Location

Located on the Churning Buttress just to the left of Kings of Rap.

Protection

11 bolts plus anchors

Photos

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I think waste case should be 13c. It is requires more endurance, as well as harder cruxes than burl master, mama daucus, disposable, and is at least 2 letters higher than churning right next door. It is also much harder than churning ozone (13b). Great route, but very hard compared to any other smith 13b (and many 13cs). Dec 28, 2013
CritConrad
Bend, OR
  5.13c
CritConrad   Bend, OR
  5.13c
This route is amazing! 3 stars instead of 4 simply because of the savage little opening boulder problem, everything else is fantastic. 3 cruxes, two great rests, and a heartbreaker finish on probably the most brilliant and photogenic arete at Smith! I think this thing should be light 13c in my opinion. While easier than lucky pigeon, mama D, and burl master, it is miles harder than any other 13b in the park. I feel like Scene of the Crime is the hardest 13b I've done and this was easily twice as many goes as that. Harder than scene, churning ozone, slit your wrists, and Rude boys. To me, this thing made Rude Boys feel like 13a

Either way it's amazing and you'll just have to remind yourself how much you love the upper arete when you're resting on the jug getting ready to punt off the last moves. Mar 17, 2018
Steven Dimmitt
  5.13b/c
Steven Dimmitt  
  5.13b/c
Good route. Definitely one of the harder 13b's in the park, maybe 13b/c. Did it right after Vicious Fish and had the top wired so it's difficult to say how hard it is. A savage line for sure! Aug 14, 2018