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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
The Morning Glory Wall is home to some of the best and most popular routes at Smith. Sunny, warm, and accessable routes range from the ever-popular 5 Gallon Buckets (5.8) to the crimpfests like Churning In the Wake and Taco Chips. This area is often the place to be seen at Smith, and the popular routes will almost always have a group under them. Expect to wait in line for the most popular selections on busy weekend days.
Virtually all of the routes here are well-protected by bomber bolts and are on clean, solid rock.
The Morning Glory Wall stretches from the Cocaine Gully on the right to the Peanut on the left. From the bridge, follow the trails along the hillside past the gullies.
| Route Name | Location | Star Rating | Difficulty | Date |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ● Tammy Bakker's Face |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches | ||
| ● Lion's Jaw |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad | ||
| ● Anonymity |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport | ||
| ● 5 Gallon Buckets |
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport | ||
| ● The Outsiders |
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport | ||
| ● Light on the Path |
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport | ||
| ● Cat Scan |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches | ||
| ● Morning Sky |
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport | ||
| ● Gumby |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport | ||
| ● Zebra Direct |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Lion Zion |
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport | ||
| ● Lion Zion (Extension) |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Zebra Seam |
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Choss in America |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● Zion |
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches | ||
| ● Dandy Line |
|
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● Lion's Chair Start |
|
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad | ||
| ● Lion's Chair |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad 5 pitches | ||
| ● Mane Line |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | ||
| ● Sketch Pad |
|
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● Energy Crisis |
|
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● Magic Light Start |
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Magic Light |
|
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport 2 pitches | ||
| ● Overboard |
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport | ||
| ● Nine Gallon Buckets |
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches | ||
| ● Cool Ranch Flavor |
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport | ||
| ● Cool Ranch Flavor Extension |
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport | ||
| ● Doritos |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● Nacho Cheese |
|
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● Taco Chips |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | ||
| ● Taco Times |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | ||
| ● Sign of the Times |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | ||
| ● Churning in the Wake |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | ||
| ● Churning in the Sky |
|
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport | ||
| ● Churning in the Ozone |
|
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport | ||
| ● Fun Churning Buttress Linkups |
|
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport | ||
| ● Ozone Hole |
|
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport | ||
| ● Vicious Fish |
|
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport | ||
| ● Waste Case |
|
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport | ||
| ● Kings of Rap |
|
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● White Heat |
|
5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport | ||
| ● Da Kine Corner |
|
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport | ||
| ● Oxygen |
|
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport |
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Chicago, IL
natestephens.media/morning-… May 6, 2025