Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Alan Watts 1984
Page Views: 19,325 total · 123/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 7, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


141 Opinions

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Description

Amazing stemming test piece of the Lower Gorge.
Stem and palm (duh) your way up the wide stem box.
Classic.

Location

Left of On The Road and right of Cornicopia.

Protection

draws
C Miller
CA
  5.11a
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a
This classic stemming problem has no real crux, just continuously difficult movement that makes it a blast to climb and will leave a smile on your face. Mar 7, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.11a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.11a
This is some crazy fun stuff. Expect a little thrill reaching the fourth bolt - just far enough above the last bolt to get your attention. I couldn't wipe the smile off my face after leading this.... Oct 22, 2006
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
  5.11a
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
  5.11a
I took a nice fall on the 3rd bolt; Andy is right about a nice little gap with a couple of no-turning-back moves before the 4th.

Stellar route! Sep 1, 2008
Alexander
Los Angeles
 
Alexander   Los Angeles
 
This is the most fun 11A ever in my book. I couldn't believe how wicked the whole thing was all the way to the anchors, it was such a welcome departure from face climbs in other areas. What a great route. Jun 24, 2010
Chalu Kim  
 
This is a must climb in the lower gorge. This climb will make your feet work. Great training climb if anything. Do laps. Don't use anchors for top roping. Sep 19, 2013
Scott Goodwin
Seattle, WA
 
Scott Goodwin   Seattle, WA
 
This is among my favorite climbs ever, anywhere, any time. An absolute classic. An absolute must-do, though I suppose you'll either love it or hate it, depending on your climbing prefs. Sep 23, 2013
Johnny Y
California
 
Johnny Y   California
 
So much fun!

I was told that the original FA was done on pins, and when they put in the bolts, they were placed at the same level to preserve the clipping stance. I can't imagine leading this on gear. Oct 9, 2014
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.11a/b
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.11a/b
Watch the leader going for the 4th bolt. Many people consider this the first crux (the second coming around the last bolt). If your belayer is light and the leader is heavy and they bail from right below the fourth bolt it is possible to hit the belayer. Stay attentive and it will be fine.

If you want to TR this without leading, you can sneak over from the top of Cornercopia. Its not the easiest traverse ever though, and long arms really help... Oct 11, 2014
Muscrat

  5.11a/b
Muscrat    
  5.11a/b
If you are 5'5" with a -1 ape index (partner) this gets really really hard at the top! Over 6', just a pure pump. Ouch! Dec 13, 2014
nicktucker
Portland, OR
  5.11a
nicktucker   Portland, OR
  5.11a
This route is awesome!! It seems this routes difficulty is a bit height dependent as I'm 5'11", and I didn't have nearly as hard a time with it as one of my shorter friends. He's 5'4" and undoubtedly a stronger climber than I am. Jun 30, 2015
Super fun route! Reminds me of pitch 2 of El Matador on Devils Tower, but shorter and a little closer together so you can actually stem with your hands too. Oct 25, 2015
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
  5.11a
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
  5.11a
Definitely would benefit from colder temperatures. Most of the key feet are getting greasy as hell. Found it to be easier when staying further out in the stembox (don't get sucked in). Nov 1, 2018