Elevation: 172 ft
GPS: 45.513, -122.618 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 376,270 total · 6,898/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Sep 30, 2014 with updates from Patrick Beeson
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

Description

This section's main crags are Broughton Bluff, Rocky Butte, Madrone, and Carver. These are also most likely to be crowded on a sunny weekend. Welcome to the metropolis.

Other popular crags on the Washington side are...
Ozone
Farside
Beacon Rock

Getting There

See individual crags for directions.

401 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Portland & The Gorge Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Portland & The Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 109
● Edges and Ledges
Trad, TR
Broughton Bluff > (2) Hanging Gardens
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 84
● The Sickle
Trad, TR
Broughton Bluff > (2) Hanging Gardens
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 133
● Classic Crack
Trad
Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 85
● Gandalf's Grip
Trad 3 pitches
Broughton Bluff > (1) N Face
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 64
● Sheer Stress
Trad 2 pitches
Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 76
● Red Eye
Sport
Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 43
● Superstition
Sport
Broughton Bluff > (5) Bat Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 65
● Thai Stick
Sport
Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 49
● Lost Boys
Sport
Broughton Bluff > (5) Bat Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 41
● Gorilla Love Affair
Sport
Broughton Bluff > (7) Jungle Cliff
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 27
● Pinhead
Sport
Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 33
● Angular Motion
Sport
Carver > Carver Cliff > Yellow Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 31
● Kashmir
Sport
Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 49
● Dracula
Sport
Broughton Bluff > (5) Bat Wall
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 21
● Bad Omen
Sport
Broughton Bluff > (5) Bat Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Edges and Ledges Broughton Bluff > (2) Hanging Gardens
 109
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● The Sickle Broughton Bluff > (2) Hanging Gardens
 84
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Classic Crack Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
 133
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Gandalf's Grip Broughton Bluff > (1) N Face
 85
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
● Sheer Stress Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
 64
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
● Red Eye Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
 76
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Superstition Broughton Bluff > (5) Bat Wall
 43
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Thai Stick Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
 65
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Lost Boys Broughton Bluff > (5) Bat Wall
 49
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Gorilla Love Affair Broughton Bluff > (7) Jungle Cliff
 41
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Pinhead Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
 27
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Angular Motion Carver > Carver Cliff > Yellow Wall
 33
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Kashmir Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
 31
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Dracula Broughton Bluff > (5) Bat Wall
 49
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
● Bad Omen Broughton Bluff > (5) Bat Wall
 21
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Portland & The Gorge »

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Add New Photo
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Photos

Triple Falls in the Gorge.
Triple Falls in the Gorge.
 1
Winter in the gorge.
Winter in the gorge.
 1
A small tower down by the river.
A small tower down by the river.
 0
Food trailer, Portland
Food trailer, Portland
 0
Oregon Maritime Museum, Portland
Oregon Maritime Museum, Portland
 0
Ruckle Ridge. A popular gorge hike with a short 3rd class section.
Ruckle Ridge. A popular gorge hike with a short…
 0
Tunnel Falls on the Eagle Creek trail.
Tunnel Falls on the Eagle Creek trail.
 0

1 Comment

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Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
Was at Madrone Wall on Sunday (8/19/2018)
THERE WAS NO ONE THERE!?!?!? ON A SUNDAY!
Needless to say, if your tired of driving across the river and waiting in line for climbs at ozone, check out Madrone. It may be slightly shorter, but its very similar in rock formation, quality and grades. Aug 20, 2018