Description

This section's main crags are Broughton Bluff, Rocky Butte, Madrone, and Carver. These are also most likely to be crowded on a sunny weekend. Welcome to the metropolis.

Other popular crags on the Washington side are...
Ozone
Farside
Beacon Rock

Getting There

See individual crags for directions.

358 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Portland & The Gorge Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Portland & The Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 109
Edges and Ledges
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 81
The Sickle
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 133
Classic Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 84
Gandalf's Grip
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 61
Sheer Stress
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 73
Red Eye
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 41
Superstition
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 62
Thai Stick
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 49
Lost Boys
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 38
Gorilla Love Affair
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 26
Pinhead
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 32
Angular Motion
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 30
Kashmir
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 45
Dracula
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 19
Bad Omen
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Edges and Ledges Broughton Bluff > (2) Hanging Gardens
 109
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Sickle Broughton Bluff > (2) Hanging Gardens
 81
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Classic Crack Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
 133
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Gandalf's Grip Broughton Bluff > (1) N Face
 84
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Sheer Stress Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
 61
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Red Eye Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
 73
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Superstition Broughton Bluff > (5) Bat Wall
 41
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Thai Stick Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
 62
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Lost Boys Broughton Bluff > (5) Bat Wall
 49
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Gorilla Love Affair Broughton Bluff > (7) Jungle Cliff
 38
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Pinhead Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
 26
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Angular Motion Carver > Carver Cliff > Yellow Wall
 32
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Kashmir Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall
 30
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dracula Broughton Bluff > (5) Bat Wall
 45
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bad Omen Broughton Bluff > (5) Bat Wall
 19
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Portland & The Gorge »

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Photos

Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
Was at Madrone Wall on Sunday (8/19/2018)
THERE WAS NO ONE THERE!?!?!? ON A SUNDAY!
Needless to say, if your tired of driving across the river and waiting in line for climbs at ozone, check out Madrone. It may be slightly shorter, but its very similar in rock formation, quality and grades. Aug 20, 2018