Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: G. Lyon - April, 1988
Page Views: 4,182 total · 28/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Aug 6, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Access Issue: Carver cliff is on PRIVATE PROPERTY! Details

Description

One of the best routes at Carver. It has two solid cruxes and the movement is fantastic. The bottom crux is a powerful move off of a pinch, and the top is a more delicate sequence up the arete. Just be sure not to blow the second clip.

Highly recommended

Location

The first route to the left of the large slab.

Protection

5 bolts

Photos

mark d
 
mark d  
 
this is a great route and it has new bolts.

it's unfortunate they decided to manufacture hold[s] on it. Aug 11, 2006
Ryan Palo
Bend, oregon
Ryan Palo   Bend, oregon
I'd like to say thanks to the individual who retro bolted this route. I had no idea just how bad the old bolts were. THANK YOU! Sep 8, 2006
Jeffrey Struck
Portland
 
Jeffrey Struck   Portland
 
I'm curious, where is the manufactured hold/holds? I did notice a pocket/edge high on the route (I think between the 4th & 5th clips) that seemed inconsistent with the rock type, but I didn't think much about it before I read the above comment. Anyway, if there IS a manufactured hold on the route, that's too bad...totally unnecessary, and a buzz kill. Aug 12, 2007
I just cruised this route earlier today! Awesome climb. I'm not sure if that slot was manufactured. Rocks can form in crazy ways. It did seem unusual and out of place based on it's depth/smoothness though. I sure hope not... I used it. Peace. Aug 29, 2008
Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.12a
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.12a
Best route at Carver. Fun, strenuous moves. Oct 15, 2008
Matt Pennock
Portland, OR
 
Matt Pennock   Portland, OR
 
I sent this using the "dummy hold"...found it to be way easier locking down on it and then making a high step with the left heel into the big jug, balancing up, and moving the left hand to the slot.. Dec 24, 2011
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.12a
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.12a
I didn't find any holds that looked manufactured to me. Fun climbing. The only crux I found for me was going from the finger crack to the jug after the 2nd bolt. That's a big move, and I had trouble consistently hitting it. Sep 22, 2016