Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Charlie Egan. Bolted by Micah Klesick
Page Views: 827 total · 21/month
Shared By: Charlie Egan on Nov 5, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Originally an old aid line (Killer Pygmy), this now offers excellent free climbing on unique features.

Head up the (kinda lousy) start to Amazon Man past one bolt to a ledge. Clip the fixed sling, then tackle a few moves to another bolt. From here, cut to the right bolt line on positive edges and then straight up for more edging and engaging moves on the distinctive "fin" feature.

Location

Starts on Amazon Man.

Protection

Bolts. One chain draw above the fin. Stick clip the high first bolt or trust the ancient pin, your call.

Photos

Charlie Egan
  5.11d
Charlie Egan  
  5.11d
New beta alert! The second ascentionist was able to stem past the hard gaston move that used to be the top crux, making the route clock in at mid-5.11. Nov 10, 2015
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.11+
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.11+
Climbing Necromancer to the fixed chain draw at the top crux is a great warmup for the rest of the crag, as it's pretty consistent 10+/11- with a good variety of climbing, and just doing that section is about 75' of climbing, virtually a route on its own. Crux above the fixed draw is pretty powerful and tricky. Great route!! I also didn't find that the start was all that awkward or bad. It's not as good as the rest of the route, but I don't think it detracts from the rest of the route. Dec 2, 2015
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
  5.11+
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
  5.11+
This route has cleaned up really pretty well, and all the holds I used felt pretty clean. So fun! Jul 12, 2016