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Routes in (3) Red Wall

Anastasia TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arch de Triumph T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Arcturus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Critical Mass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Body S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hit the Highway T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kashmir S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Bentley TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On the Loose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Opus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Physical Graffiti T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pinhead S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Eye S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sheer Energy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheer Stress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot From the Hip T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thai Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: S. Mrazek, C. Buzzard 1991
Page Views: 3,118 total · 22/month
Shared By: Philip Scoles on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the upper headwall of sheer stress. Crimps and hard lockoff's take you to the top.

Location

Above sheer stress.

Protection

gear for sheer stress, bolts.

Photos

phillip Hranicka
  5.11d
phillip Hranicka  
  5.11d
I just revisited this route and I can say that it is certainly one of the top ten Portland-area sport climbs. Maybe state?! Good holds on beautiful, solid, grippy rock- what more could you ask for? Jun 23, 2007
Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.11d
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.11d
The third bolt seemed oddly hard to clip for a shorter person (and I'm 5'9"). Not a big deal, but your waaaay past your last clip. Agree with the above; for the grade, there is no better route in the PDX area. Super clean falls, so it's a good one to push your limit! Apr 16, 2010
Eric Schnepel
Portland
  5.11d
Eric Schnepel   Portland
  5.11d
This route is rad. Without a doubt the best thing I have climbed around Portland. Great movement and super aesthetic rock, this thing would be a classic anywhere. Seemed to be on the upper end of 5.11d and harder than Kashmir. May 25, 2011
another Chad
  5.11d
another Chad  
  5.11d
Fantastic route. Technical, exposed and captivating. It took a while to figure out an efficient way to move between the 3rd and 4th bolts but once unlocked the route felt slightly easier than Kashmir to me.

Chad May 3, 2013
phillip Hranicka
  5.11d
phillip Hranicka  
  5.11d
Thanks to whomever for the solid rebolting work! Apr 2, 2014
Ryan Ried
Portland OR
 
Ryan Ried   Portland OR
 
This thing is amazing! Best climb I've been on in Portland for sure. Does anyone know if you can lower to the ground with a 70m? May 20, 2014
another Chad
  5.11d
another Chad  
  5.11d
Ryan, you can lower to the ground with a 60m rope from the top of Pinhead and have a couple feet to spare. That is if you are getting up there via Sheer Stress. Approaching from Sheer Energy or anything else probably wouldn't work with a 60m.


Chad May 21, 2014

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