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Crown Point Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Crown Point

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aurora S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Belvedere S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Fairview Buttress S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jewel in the Crown S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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Elevation:	723 ft	220 m
GPS:	45.53988, -122.24435 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	1,804 total · 62/month
Shared By:	E r i c on Oct 6, 2023
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Description

Crown Point is one of the most impressive walls in Oregon. It offers inspiring views of the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area. It's located just minutes away from a major urban center, and route top-outs are a short walk away from the Vista House parking lot. Despite these attractive attributes, many alluring lines remained undeveloped until only recently simply because Crown Point has loose rock and its lower-angle sections can be covered in dirt, moss, and grass. Although Crown Point’s basalt is generally hard, fractures in the entablature structure are susceptible to weathering. The highest degree of weathering and loose rock occurs in the lower-angle sections. However, on steep faces under the weathered blocks and flakes, the rock is generally stable and the climbing can actually be pretty good.

Crown Point's first technical route, the West Chimney (5.4), was established in 1950 and goes up the obvious cleft on the western side of the cliff (photo). The route became one of the more popular multi-pitch routes in Oregon and was frequently guided by the Mazamas. Over time, interest in the West Chimney declined as climber preferences shifted from traditional climbing toward sport climbing. In 1964, the Zucchini Route (5.6 A2 or 5.10a R) was established on the eastern aspect of the wall and has seen few repeats. In 1993, Steve Elder and Tim Olson completed The RURP Traverse (5.10- X, A2), an alternate finish to the Zucchini Route. They climbed it onsight, ground-up and encountered loose rock and sparse protection. Steve is known for bold ascents in the Gorge (Wind Mountain solo), on Mt. Hood (Yockum Ridge solo in winter and summer), and in his native country of New Zealand (Mt. Cook Massif). According to Steve, “The RURP Traverse was possibly one of the scariest routes I’ve ever done”. The RURP Traverse is the definitive serious adventure climb and remains unrepeated. During their ascent, Steve scoped out a steep line off an orange ledge, which they later returned to and put up Crown Point’s first sport climb, Jewel in the Crown.

Belvedere, Fairview Buttress, and Aurora are Crown Point’s newest additions marking the end of a 30-year hiatus (photo). These routes were aggressively cleaned from the top down, with tons of loose rock removed. Belay stations were installed away from fall lines to minimize potential rockfall exposure. The new routes are alpine-like sport climbs with closely spaced, bomber bolts and fixed pieces, and relatively straightforward route-finding. However, unstable rock and vegetation remain outside cleaned zones. Alpine savviness and experience climbing entablature basalt are beneficial to contend with Crown Point conditions and perceived risk. For all routes at Crown Point, pull downward rather than outward on holds that appear loose or suspect and maintain body weight directly over the feet, be mindful of the rope’s position if it runs across unstable rock, climb well within your technical limit, wear a helmet, and so on.

Crown Point’s main wall faces north, receiving limited sunlight from April through September, typically no more than a few hours per day. Fairview Buttress faces west-northwest and can receive afternoon sunlight year-round. Crown Point is well-known for strong east winds particularly from late fall through winter. However, climbing conditions tend to be more favorable and less windy from late spring through early fall. Fairview Buttress benefits from partial shelter from the prevailing east winds.

East of Crown Point’s summit and below a hanging valley lies Palisade Falls (also known as Crown Point Falls). First climbed during the historic cold snap of 1979, Crown Jewel (WI 3) is one of the most popular ice climbs in the Gorge.

Below the Vista House and near the railroad tracks, a large overhanging boulder dubbed the Railroad Boulder is visible from the highway (photo). Developed in winter 2024, this boulder features several high-quality problems over a relatively flat landing (photo). Although located within Crown Point State Park, access to this area involves crossing UPRR right-of-way and a fence. Please be respectful of their property.

Guidebooks:

Olson, 2021. NW Oregon Rock.
Olson, 2009. Gorge Classic Climbs
Nailers 'Nonymous, 1995. Reference Manual for Mountain Maniacs
Dodge, 1975. Climbers Guide to Oregon.
Neuberger, 1958. Climbers Guide to the Columbia Gorge. Mazama Vol XL, No 13, Dec 1958.

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Crown Point and Vista House General Info:

Getting There

To reach the Vista House at Crown Point State Scenic Corridor, take Exit 22 from I-84, drive south on Corbett Hill Road, then east on the Columbia River Highway US 30.

There are two primary options to access the base of the wall from the Vista House parking lot:

Fairview Buttress Rappel
Walk to the west side of the viaduct. At the fifth light post, hop over the wall and proceed toward Rooster Rock for about 50 steps. At the fork, go right then a few more steps to the rappel station, where a fixed rope is anchored to a tree. As shown on the topo, four raps with a 70m rope are required to reach the base. A 7m fixed rope is useful for reaching the final rappel station. Due to the length and steepness of the rappels, tying knots in the ends of the rope is recommended for safety. See the Climbing Area Map.
West Side Trail
From the trail below the west side of the viaduct, descend southwest down a steep, broad gully. When the cliff begins to face west, veer right and continue along the base of the wall. Be prepared for some bushwacking. 30 minutes. See the Climbing Area Map.

The base of Crown Point can also be accessed from two additional locations:

Portland Women's Forum State Scenic Viewpoint Park in the lot (no fee or gate). Hike down a dirt road/trail from the northwest side of the parking lot to the railroad tracks. Go along the tracks to the Railroad Boulder then up the talus slope. 45 minutes.
Rooster Rock State Park Park in the lot (seasonal fee and gated during off-hours) or by the gate just after the Hwy 84 eastbound offramp. Walk adjacent to the freeway then turn left onto a dirt road directly across from Rooster Rock. Continue to the railroad tracks. Go along the tracks to the Railroad Boulder then up the talus slope. 30 minutes.