Type: | Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | E. Collins, Sep 2023, lead rope-solo |
Page Views: | 563 total · 269/month |
Shared By: | E r i c on Oct 6, 2023 |
Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
Description
Belvedere ascends a direct line up the middle of Crown Point's north face passing through two prominent roofs and up a vertical black watercourse (topo). The route was developed top-down and aggressively cleaned. Tons of loose rock were removed.
Belvedere is a well-protected face climb. Cracks for jamming and gear placements are rare. Although the holds on the climb seem to have stabilized, its best to pull down rather than out on any loose or suspect holds and keep your weight over your feet. Vegetation cover is usually a good indicator of off-route holds - avoid them. Even though the bolts are closely spaced, the wall is steep, devoid of decent ledges, and intimidating (drone videos).
The route is in good shape to climb but more work could be done including anchor chain installations and rappel route cleaning. Also, the approach down the west ravine could use some trail maintenance. We'll see if the route gets enough interest and traffic to warrant the extra effort. For now, if you must rappel from P3 or P5, directionals are recommended to circumvent areas with potentially loose rock (topo).
The route may be too wet to climb in early Spring and after the first heavy rains in the Fall due to seepage. In 2023, rainfall in March and April was above average and the seep in the Gully didn't dry up until May. Vegetation and some rock cover were left in-place in the Gully to control soil runoff and prevent dirt covered holds in the Watercourse.
P1 5.8 16m - Start below the First Roof where you will see the first bolt about 10 feet up. Climb the short steep section then continue up relatively easy, low-angle terrain to the belay ledge at the base of the colonnade (bolt and fixed pin).
P2 5.9 33m - Climb 5.9 face moves up the column then follow the line of bolts to the belay under the right side of the First Roof (two bolts and a tiny ledge).
P3 5.11 33m - The crux pitch. Crank a 5.10 move above the first bolt then veer left on pumpy jugs over the roof. Continue past two tricky but well protected 5.11 sections then up to the Second Roof. The roof is easier than it looks if you get the sequence right. Belay just above the roof on a small ledge with two bolts.
P4 5.10 16m - Climb past a fixed pin and bolt then traverse left to an airy 5.10 section. Continue up to the belay (two bolts and a small ledge).
P5 5.10 39m - The money pitch. Climb up (5.10) then veer right (5.10) to the Watercourse. The final moves in the Watercourse are slightly overhanging (5.10). Carefully climb the easy 5th class Gully to the belay (three bolts and a sloping ledge). After leading the pitch, verbal communication may be challenging. Use cell phones or other means for belay signals.
From the top of P5, walk up to the trail beneath the viaduct then go either left or right, both ways lead to the Vista House parking lot.
Location
The approach is about 30 minutes and a second car at, or a ride from, Vista House after topping out may be needed for the first two options:
- Portland Women's Forum Park in the lot (no fee or gate). Hike down a dirt road/trail that starts on the northwest side of the parking lot and ends at the RR tracks. Go along the tracks then up the talus slope to the route. Biking or walking from Vista House back to the PWF parking lot (1.4 miles) would eliminate the need for a second car.
- Rooster Rock State Park Park in the lot (seasonal fee and gated in off-hours). Walk across the overpass then adjacent to the freeway. Turn left on a dirt road across from Rooster Rock to the RR tracks. Go along the tracks then up the talus slope to the route.
- Vista House at Crown Point From the trail below the viaduct, descend west down a steep gully then veer right when the cliff becomes west facing. Keep going down generally staying along the base of the wall to the north side. Be prepared for some bushwacking.
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