Type: | Sport, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | E. Collins, Sep 2023, lead rope-solo |
Page Views: | 1,363 total · 113/month |
Shared By: | E r i c on Oct 6, 2023 |
Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Description
Belvedere ascends a direct line up the middle of Crown Point's north face passing through two prominent roofs and up a vertical black watercourse (topo). The route was developed top-down and aggressively cleaned. Tons of loose rock were removed.
Belvedere is a well-protected face climb. Cracks for jamming and gear placements are rare. Although the holds on the climb seem to have stabilized, its best to pull down rather than out on any that are loose or suspect and keep your weight over your feet. Even though the bolts are closely spaced, the wall is steep, devoid of decent ledges, and intimidating (drone videos).
The route is in good shape to climb but more work could be done including anchor chain installations and rappel route cleaning. Also, the approach from Vista House could use some trail maintenance. We'll see if the route gets enough interest and traffic to warrant the additional work. If you must rappel from the top of pitch 3 or 5, directionals are recommended to circumvent undeveloped areas that may be loose (topo).
Some pitches may be too wet to climb for several months of the year due to seepage including pitch 2 under the First Roof and pitch 5 in the Watercourse and Gully (winter photo). Seeps on the route seem to develop after the first heavy rains in the Fall and dry up by the end of June. At the last belay ledge and in the Gully, vegetation and some rock cover were left in-place to control soil runoff and prevent dirt covered holds in the Watercourse.
P1 5.8 16m - Start below the First Roof. Climb a short steep section then continue up low-angle terrain to the belay ledge at the base of the colonnade (bolt and fixed pin).
P2 5.9 33m - Climb 5.9 face moves up the column then follow the line of bolts to the belay under the right side of the First Roof (two bolts and a tiny ledge).
P3 5.11 33m - The crux pitch. Crank a 5.10 move above the first clip then veer left on pumpy jugs over the roof. Continue past two tricky but well protected 5.11 sections then up to the Second Roof. The roof is easier than it looks if you get the sequence right. Belay just above the roof on a small ledge with two bolts.
P4 5.10 16m - Climb past a fixed pin and bolt then traverse left to an airy 5.10 section. Continue up to the belay (two bolts and a small ledge).
P5 5.10 39m - The money pitch. Climb up (5.10) then veer right (5.10) to the Watercourse. The final moves in the Watercourse are slightly overhanging (5.10). Carefully climb the easy 5th class Gully to the belay (three bolts and a sloping ledge). After leading the pitch, verbal communication may be challenging. Use cell phones or other means for belay signals.
Walk up to the trail beneath the viaduct then go either left or right, both ways lead to the Vista House parking lot.
Location
The approach is about 30 to 45 minutes. A second car at, or a ride from, Vista House after topping out may be needed for the first two options:
- Portland Women's Forum Park in the lot (no fee or gate). Hike down a dirt road/trail that starts on the northwest side of the parking lot and ends at the RR tracks. Go along the tracks then up the talus slope to the route. Biking or walking from Vista House back to the PWF parking lot (1.4 miles) would eliminate the need for a second car. 45 minutes.
- Rooster Rock State Park Park in the lot (seasonal fee and gated in off-hours). Walk across the overpass then adjacent to the freeway. Turn left on a dirt road across from Rooster Rock to the RR tracks. Go along the tracks then up the talus slope to the route. 30 minutes.
- Vista House at Crown Point From the trail below the west side of the viaduct, descend southwest down a steep broad gully then veer right when the cliff becomes west facing. Keep going down generally staying along the base of the wall to the north side. Be prepared for some bushwacking. 30 minutes. See the approach trail map.
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