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Routes in (5) Bat Wall

Bad Omen S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bat Wall Traverse, The 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b V6 7A
Bela Lugosi S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bloodline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bloodsucker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Count Chalkula S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Danse Macabre S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dracula S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Epitaph S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Frightnight S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Go Back to the Gym A3
Haunting, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lost Boys S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Manson Family Reunion S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mystic Void T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nosferatu S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Open Project: Count Chalkula Extension S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Predator S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Remain in Light S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Superstition S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sutured by the Vampress S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vampyr S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: FFA: July 11, 1981 by Jeff Thomas & Mark Cartier
Page Views: 3,172 total, 46/month
Shared By: another Chad on Mar 25, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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Superstition is a three pitch line that goes to the top of the Bat Wall. Only the first pitch is described here. Olson’'s Portland Rock Climbs has information on the complete line if so desired.

P1 of Superstition is a popular and fun climb near the center of the Bat Wall (just left of Lost Boys). Ascend a shallow corner passing several minor cruxes. Near the top of the pitch, a leftward traverse on a slab needs to be negotiated (crux). Once past the slab and into the flaring chimney a nut or #2 C3 can be placed. Gain the narrow ledge and clip a fixed piton on the crawl to the anchor.


Quickdraws, runners and a medium sized nut or #2 C3.
Steel sport clip biners are currently on the anchor.


Laura Bauer
Laura Bauer  
Such an excellent climb!! The variation in movement and style makes it so fun and interesting. That being said, it can be difficult to clean due to the traverse. Having someone follow is probably best if possible. Have fun! Nov 19, 2016
Adam Therneau
Adam Therneau  
Excellent route! The traverse move isn't too bad if you get the right sequence and trust the feet. While definitely four stars, I think Lost Boys gets my vote for best Broughton 10. If you buy that it's a 10, that is... May 2, 2013
another Chad  
I agree, using a runner on the fifth bolt is a nice way to keep the rope drag manageable. P1 of Superstition and Gorilla Love Affair are two of my favorite 5.10's at Broughton.

Chad Sep 28, 2012
Warning! Moderate spoilers may follow...

On P1, A runner on the bolt before the crux bolt (the crux bolt being the one protecting the short traverse under the roof) will definitely help reduce rope drag. The same goes for the cam placement after the crux; I believe there is also a spot for a .5 c4 a bit higher than where the .3 (or #2 c3) would go.

I submit that this is the best 5.10 at Broughton. Feel free to disagree and a lively discussion thread shall ensue :) Jun 2, 2012