Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (5) Bat Wall

Bad Omen S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bat Wall Traverse, The 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b V6 7A
Bela Lugosi S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bloodline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bloodsucker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Count Chalkula S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Danse Macabre S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dracula S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Epitaph S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Frightnight S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Go Back to the Gym A3
Haunting, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lost Boys S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Manson Family Reunion S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mystic Void T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nosferatu S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Open Project: Count Chalkula Extension S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Predator S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Remain in Light S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Superstition S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sutured by the Vampress S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vampyr S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mysterious Guys
Page Views: 2,500 total, 20/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Aug 16, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


41 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

One of the most popular routes at Broughtons, Lost Boys lives up to the hype. The crux is tricky, and some what heady, but the rest of the climbing is fairly straight forward. Long moves or difficult sections will always be rewarded with a good stance and a rest.

Location

Bat Wall, far right side.

Protection

Sport.

Photos

Emmerson Donnell
Portland OR
  5.10d
Emmerson Donnell   Portland OR
  5.10d
Best warm up for the harder stuff on bat wall IMO. Still pretty hard for 10d though. Apr 16, 2017
benson87
Portland
 
benson87   Portland
 
A wonderful route that certainly makes you think during the crux sections. Don't think this is a 5.11 at all once you figure out the beta. The climbing isn't quite straight forward at first glance, so I understand why some might think it's harder than it is on one's first attempt if you're not a solid boulderer. A must do at Broughton for sure. Thanks for the retrobolting!! Jun 21, 2016
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10d
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10d
All old bolts replaced as of 4/5/15, thanks to ASCA and volunteers. Steel biners added to the anchor. Apr 5, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10d
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10d
great route. I found that a nice kneebar lock going through the overhang slot crux made it pretty manageable. Aug 16, 2014
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.10d
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.10d
I'll agree, there's an upper and lower crux. I thought the lower was more balancy and harder to onsight and the upper was reachy and slightly strenuous, but more straight forward. Great route! Jul 15, 2014
Eric Schnepel
Portland
 
Eric Schnepel   Portland
 
Ben. . .
I agree with you. Even with the sequence figured out, I would say Lost Boys is a bit sandy at 10d. 11a/b seems fair. Most routes on the Bat Wall feel a letter grade stiff in my opinion, but I think Lost Boys is a bit beyond that.

Eric Apr 22, 2012
Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
thanks for the info - either way it is a really cool route taking a very striking line - but this thing is way sandbagged...onsighted a lot of .11+ stuff that went down easier than this thing! Apr 16, 2012
hemp22
  5.10d
hemp22  
  5.10d
I think the guidebook refers to 2 separate "crux" sections on this route. The general consensus seems to be that the first hard spot, at the 4th bolt where you pull around/over the overhanging prow, is the real crux of the route. It is insecure and sequential, and definitely hard to figure out the first time.
The upper "crux" listed in the guidebook, at the last bolt did get maybe little bit harder due to a broken hold a couple years ago (see previous comment), but is still more straight-forward than the lower crux. Feb 15, 2012
Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
Perhaps a hold or two broke around the roof part of this route? The guidebook 'crux' at the top felt normal compared to other .10ds @this crag - however, the real crux now seems to be in the overhanging scoop/prow - requires a stemming knee bar and some long moves on just ok holds (you could see some broken hold scars); this part felt solid .11b/c to me. I climbed it twice just to make sure there wasn't alternate easy beta or a hold i missed - rad route, but I was bummed for my three other climbing partners (all solid .10+/.11- climbers) couldn't touch those moves even on TR. Feb 14, 2012
hemp22
  5.10d
hemp22  
  5.10d
There used to be a dinner-plate-sized loose flake that was used as an undercling for the move past the last bolt. This flake came off some time during the 2008-09 winter. The move on the remaining undercling holds remains basically the same. May 13, 2009