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Routes in (5) Bat Wall

Bad Omen S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bat Wall Traverse, The 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b V6 7A
Bela Lugosi S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bloodline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bloodsucker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Count Chalkula S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Danse Macabre S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dracula S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Epitaph S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Frightnight S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Go Back to the Gym A3
Haunting, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lost Boys S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Manson Family Reunion S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mystic Void T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nosferatu S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Open Project: Count Chalkula Extension S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Predator S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Remain in Light S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Superstition S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sutured by the Vampress S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vampyr S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,075 total, 28/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

This striking and powerful line is one the best on the Bat wall. Containing power, balance, and finesse this route is a masterpiece. The opening moves are the hardest but upper moves still pack a punch. Begin up a very steep start below the remenants of a massive old beehive. This hive was removed long ago to reveal several very nice sharp incuts. (Route is also known a B-line or Beeline due to this) Continue up through a series of changing corners up to a huge roof. Traverse the roof and pull the lip on the left side. There are nice chain anchors just above the roof on a ledge.

The route is well bolted and was solely a sport climb up until a few years ago when several locals did the Retro-trad ascent. No bolts were removed but the entire route was done on gear. A trad ascent of the route is a spicy endeavor and should probably be rehearsed on TR or on bolts first.

Protection

Quickdraws - Steel sport clip biners are currently on the anchor.
or
Cams to #3, standard and offset nuts

Photos

Evan Larsell
Portland
Evan Larsell   Portland
If you climb this route when it's cold out the bees are not a problem. These are honey bees and they're in enough trouble as it is. Please don't spray the hive. Let them live. As of today, the hive is going strong. Apr 28, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
All old bolts replaced as of 4/5/15, thanks to ASCA and volunteers. Steel biners added to the anchor. Apr 5, 2015
Detchy
Portland, OR
  5.12a
Detchy   Portland, OR
  5.12a
Everyone can tackle the first crux differently, so open your mind and trust your feet ;) The line becomes much less tiring once you realize that the middle 25 feet of the route is fun, off-vertical slab climbing.

I know it's been said before, but cranking off your heel and (lightly) pulling the mono is one of the coolest parts of the climb, so I don't recommend scooting left at the top, you'd just be cutting yourself short.

BTW - Nobody can get on this (summer 2013) until someone evicts the winged tenants. Not it! Jul 3, 2013
Eric Schnepel
Portland
  5.12b
Eric Schnepel   Portland
  5.12b
Seriously a sweet line. The physically hardest moves come in the early boulder problem to the first bolt. A technical and unique midsection leading into a short finger crack takes you to a large roof. Traverse the roof from right to left on jugs then crank over the lip and reach for a triangular mono. The crux for me was pulling over the roof to the triangular pocket. The move is not terribly hard once it's unlocked. It's just insecure and slightly awkward. This route was somewhat beta intensive and sequential for me. Nov 5, 2010
Bob Graham  
 
great route, fun roof
Nice job Mark I never saw this pic, right on! Nov 6, 2006
mark d
 
mark d  
 
one of the best routes around portland. a must do for the grade. very aesthetic climb with a roof at the end. Mar 11, 2006