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Routes in (5) Bat Wall

Bad Omen S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bat Wall Traverse, The 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b V6 7A
Bela Lugosi S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bloodline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bloodsucker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Count Chalkula S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Danse Macabre S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dracula S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Epitaph S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Frightnight S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Go Back to the Gym A3
Haunting, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lost Boys S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Manson Family Reunion S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mystic Void T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nosferatu S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Open Project: Count Chalkula Extension S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Predator S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Remain in Light S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Superstition S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sutured by the Vampress S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Vampyr S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Matt Spohn. Bolts by Tom Scales.
Page Views: 314 total, 21/month
Shared By: Charlie Egan on Sep 6, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the first 5 or 6 bolts of Dracula, then cut left into more difficult territory. Classic Broughton--the holds wouldn't be so bad if any of them faced the right direction.

The grade applies to the first anchor, the extension is much harder. It looks as though a hard direct start (straight up after the second bolt of Drac) was once bolted and then chopped--not sure on the story there. If anyone manages to link those moves on toprope and thinks its a viable alternate start, PM me and I'll be happy to re-equip it.

Location

Start on Dracula, cut left.

Protection

Bolts. You may want to extend the 5th bolt of Dracula (and 6th if you clip it) to reduce drag.

Photos

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bryans  
I was walking past the Bat Wall with my then-toddlers several years ago when I saw these middle age guys bolting right through Dracula. I stopped and made really clear that they were going right through both a classic sport route and an old A4 route (Go back to the gym? Wayne Wallace maybe?) , and that they needed to immediately stop unless somehow both FA parties for those routes had given permission to commit this atrocity. They more or less ignored me and said that Portland needed an aid route for people to practice on. I explained that leaving bolts 3 feet apart, so you can hang directly in your harness and clip the next bolt, was not exactly aid climbing and had no real value anyway. They didn't stop, and I told them their route had a 100% chance of being chopped, although not by me, and that they were just scarring the rock pointlessly and wasting their own time. I posted on this site later in the day about what I saw going on, and obviously the right thing was done. Funny to see that incident referenced here, as part of our collective local climbing history.
Dec 21, 2016
peachy spohn  
 
---I redpointed this about two years ago. It may need a little brushing, but the moves are fantastic - a powerful crux to surmount the small roof and then an explosive finish to a jug! It all requires a hard smear with the right foot and some killer side-pulling/gastoning and some fun air if you miss. This route def. adds another cool test piece for locals. Thanks for posting Charlie! Sep 13, 2016
peachy spohn  
 
Charlie, I think that straight up variation was a crazy persons attempt to make a bolt ladder so that they could practice aid climbing. It outraged the community several years back and the bolts were quickly chopped. It was...crazy! Sep 13, 2016
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
Yea, Tom added the line back in the day. Sep 9, 2016