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Elevation: 37 ft
GPS: 45.5414, -122.38
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

Description Suggest change

Comprised of around a dozen cliffs on the outskirts of Portland, Broughton Bluff provides easy access for the local urban climber. Many quality routes ranging from 5.4 topropes to 5.14 leads on Broughton's jumbled basalt cliffs are available for climbers of all abilities.

Climbing is possible all year at Broughton but can be difficult in the winter due to damp and soggy conditions, unless you can climb 5.12. Late Spring, Summer, and Fall are best.

Getting There Suggest change

By car:
Broughton Bluff is located at the mouth of the Columbia Gorge near the town of Troutdale. Take I-84 East from Portland to the Lewis & Clark State Park exit, turn left at the stop sign and drive under the railroad bridge, then park in the parking lot on the left. Take the trail leading towards the hillside and follow it up for a few hundred meters to the cliffs.

By transit:
Both options are about equally as long when coming from downtown, with the first requiring no transfers but more walking and the second one transfer but less walking.
Option 1: Take the 77 to 257th & Columbia River Hwy then walk down Columbia River Hwy for about 25 minutes (about 2km). Once you cross the bridge, turn left and the trail will be shortly on your right.
Option 2: Via either the 20, transferring at Kane & 29th, or the Blue Line, transferring at Gresham Central, take the 80 to the end of the line at Glenn Otto Park, cross the bridge, turn left, and the trail will be shortly on your right. About 10 minutes of walking in total.

164 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Broughton Bluff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Broughton Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 130
Gandalf's Grip
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 110
Superstition
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 108
Lost Boys
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 91
Dark Arts
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 42
Necromancer
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 39
Pinhead
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 60
Kashmir
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 112
Dracula
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 35
Bloodline
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 49
Bad Omen
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 25
Manson Family Reunion
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 40
Bela Lugosi
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 35
Heart of Darkness
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 11
Dark Tower
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 8
The Undercount
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gandalf's Grip (1) N Face
 130
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Superstition (6) Bat Wall
 110
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Lost Boys (6) Bat Wall
 108
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Dark Arts (6) Bat Wall
 91
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Necromancer (9) Jungle Cliff
 42
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Pinhead (3) Red Wall
 39
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Kashmir (3) Red Wall
 60
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dracula (6) Bat Wall
 112
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bloodline (6) Bat Wall
 35
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Bad Omen (6) Bat Wall
 49
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
Manson Family Reunion (6) Bat Wall
 25
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Bela Lugosi (6) Bat Wall
 40
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Heart of Darkness (9) Jungle Cliff
 35
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Dark Tower (1) N Face
 11
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
The Undercount (6) Bat Wall
 8
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Broughton Bluff »

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