Elevation: 37 ft
GPS: 45.541, -122.38 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 455,772 total · 2,292/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

Description

Comprised of around a dozen cliffs on the outskirts of Portland, Broughton Bluff provides easy access for the local urban climber. Many quality routes ranging from 5.6 topropes to 5.12 leads on BroughtonÂ’s jumbled basalt cliffs are available for climbers of all abilities.

Climbing is possible all year at Broughton but can be difficult in the winter due to damp and soggy conditions, unless you can climb 5.12. Late Spring, Summer, and Fall are best.

Getting There

Broughton Bluff is located at the mouth of the Columbia Gorge near the town of Troutdale. Take I-84 East from Portland to the Lewis & Clark State Park exit, turn left at the stop sign and drive under the railroad bridge, then park in the parking lot on the left. Take the trail leading towards the hillside and follow it up for a few hundred meters to the cliffs.

157 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Broughton Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 147
Edges and Ledges
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 117
The Sickle
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 116
Gandalf's Grip
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 180
Classic Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 84
Sheer Stress
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 70
Under the Yum Yum Tree
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 110
Red Eye
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 90
Superstition
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 93
Thai Stick
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 91
Lost Boys
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 62
Dark Arts
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 79
Gorilla Love Affair
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 57
Ecocide
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 48
Kashmir
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 89
Dracula
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Edges and Ledges (2) Hanging Gardens
 147
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Sickle (2) Hanging Gardens
 117
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Gandalf's Grip (1) N Face
 116
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Classic Crack (3) Red Wall
 180
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Sheer Stress (3) Red Wall
 84
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Under the Yum Yum Tree (9) Jungle Cliff
 70
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Red Eye (3) Red Wall
 110
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Superstition (6) Bat Wall
 90
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Thai Stick (3) Red Wall
 93
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Lost Boys (6) Bat Wall
 91
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Dark Arts (6) Bat Wall
 62
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Gorilla Love Affair (9) Jungle Cliff
 79
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Ecocide (9) Jungle Cliff
 57
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Kashmir (3) Red Wall
 48
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dracula (6) Bat Wall
 89
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Broughton Bluff »

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