Elevation: 37 ft
GPS: 45.541, -122.38 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 233,136 total · 1,402/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

Description

Comprised of around a dozen cliffs on the outskirts of Portland, Broughton Bluff provides easy access for the local urban climber. Many quality routes ranging from 5.6 topropes to 5.12 leads on BroughtonÂ’s jumbled basalt cliffs are available for climbers of all abilities.

Climbing is possible all year at Broughton but can be difficult in the winter due to damp and soggy conditions, unless you can climb 5.12. Late Spring, Summer, and Fall are best.

Getting There

Broughton Bluff is located at the mouth of the Columbia Gorge near the town of Troutdale. Take I-84 East from Portland to the Lewis & Clark State Park exit, turn left at the stop sign and drive under the railroad bridge, then park in the parking lot on the left. Take the trail leading towards the hillside and follow it up for a few hundred meters to the cliffs.

133 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Broughton Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 117
Edges and Ledges
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 89
The Sickle
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 139
Classic Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 90
Gandalf's Grip
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 66
Sheer Stress
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 48
Sheer Energy
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 82
Red Eye
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 53
Superstition
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 67
Thai Stick
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 55
Lost Boys
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 45
Gorilla Love Affair
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 28
Pinhead
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 31
Kashmir
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 62
Dracula
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 25
Bad Omen
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Edges and Ledges (2) Hanging Gardens
 117
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Sickle (2) Hanging Gardens
 89
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Classic Crack (3) Red Wall
 139
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Gandalf's Grip (1) N Face
 90
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Sheer Stress (3) Red Wall
 66
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sheer Energy (3) Red Wall
 48
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Red Eye (3) Red Wall
 82
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Superstition (5) Bat Wall
 53
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Thai Stick (3) Red Wall
 67
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Lost Boys (5) Bat Wall
 55
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Gorilla Love Affair (7) Jungle Cliff
 45
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Pinhead (3) Red Wall
 28
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Kashmir (3) Red Wall
 31
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dracula (5) Bat Wall
 62
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bad Omen (5) Bat Wall
 25
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Broughton Bluff »

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