Elevation: 37 ft
GPS: 45.541, -122.38 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 306,837 total · 1,721/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Kristy Tippey, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

Description

Comprised of around a dozen cliffs on the outskirts of Portland, Broughton Bluff provides easy access for the local urban climber. Many quality routes ranging from 5.6 topropes to 5.12 leads on BroughtonÂ’s jumbled basalt cliffs are available for climbers of all abilities.

Climbing is possible all year at Broughton but can be difficult in the winter due to damp and soggy conditions, unless you can climb 5.12. Late Spring, Summer, and Fall are best.

Getting There

Broughton Bluff is located at the mouth of the Columbia Gorge near the town of Troutdale. Take I-84 East from Portland to the Lewis & Clark State Park exit, turn left at the stop sign and drive under the railroad bridge, then park in the parking lot on the left. Take the trail leading towards the hillside and follow it up for a few hundred meters to the cliffs.

142 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Broughton Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 130
Edges and Ledges
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 99
The Sickle
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 100
Gandalf's Grip
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 155
Classic Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 76
Sheer Stress
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 57
Sheer Energy
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 100
Red Eye
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 70
Superstition
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 80
Thai Stick
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 70
Lost Boys
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 43
Dark Arts
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 64
Gorilla Love Affair
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 32
Pinhead
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 39
Kashmir
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 73
Dracula
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Edges and Ledges (2) Hanging Gardens
 130
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Sickle (2) Hanging Gardens
 99
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Gandalf's Grip (1) N Face
 100
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Classic Crack (3) Red Wall
 155
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Sheer Stress (3) Red Wall
 76
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sheer Energy (3) Red Wall
 57
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Red Eye (3) Red Wall
 100
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Superstition (5) Bat Wall
 70
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Thai Stick (3) Red Wall
 80
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Lost Boys (5) Bat Wall
 70
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Dark Arts (5) Bat Wall
 43
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Gorilla Love Affair (7) Jungle Cliff
 64
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Pinhead (3) Red Wall
 32
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Kashmir (3) Red Wall
 39
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dracula (5) Bat Wall
 73
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Broughton Bluff »

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