Description

Comprised of around a dozen cliffs on the outskirts of Portland, Broughton Bluff provides easy access for the local urban climber. Many quality routes ranging from 5.6 topropes to 5.12 leads on BroughtonÂ’s jumbled basalt cliffs are available for climbers of all abilities.

Climbing is possible all year at Broughton but can be difficult in the winter due to damp and soggy conditions, unless you can climb 5.12. Late Spring, Summer, and Fall are best.

Getting There

Broughton Bluff is located at the mouth of the Columbia Gorge near the town of Troutdale. Take I-84 East from Portland to the Lewis & Clark State Park exit, turn left at the stop sign and drive under the railroad bridge, then park in the parking lot on the left. Take the trail leading towards the hillside and follow it up for a few hundred meters to the cliffs.

116 Total Climbs

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Location: Broughton Bluff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Broughton Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 109
Edges and Ledges
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 81
The Sickle
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 133
Classic Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 84
Gandalf's Grip
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 61
Sheer Stress
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 44
Sheer Energy
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 73
Red Eye
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 41
Superstition
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 62
Thai Stick
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 49
Lost Boys
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 38
Gorilla Love Affair
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 26
Pinhead
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 30
Kashmir
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 45
Dracula
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 19
Bad Omen
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Edges and Ledges (2) Hanging Gardens
 109
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
The Sickle (2) Hanging Gardens
 81
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Classic Crack (3) Red Wall
 133
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Gandalf's Grip (1) N Face
 84
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Sheer Stress (3) Red Wall
 61
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sheer Energy (3) Red Wall
 44
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Red Eye (3) Red Wall
 73
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Superstition (5) Bat Wall
 41
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Thai Stick (3) Red Wall
 62
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Lost Boys (5) Bat Wall
 49
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Gorilla Love Affair (7) Jungle Cliff
 38
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Pinhead (3) Red Wall
 26
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Kashmir (3) Red Wall
 30
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dracula (5) Bat Wall
 45
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bad Omen (5) Bat Wall
 19
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Broughton Bluff »

Weather Averages

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Dannyr  
Many areas in Oregon have poison oak, but Broughton is thick with the stuff. Watch out for it! Feb 14, 2006
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
Also, don't leave your stuff in the car. There have been numberous break-ins here with alot of gear getting stolen in the past. I myself have seen broken windows in the parking lot. It's sad but true. Just take everything with you or lock it up out of sight. Apr 14, 2006
doggy  
WOW!! This is one of the best climbing areas in Portland. It offers a little bit of everything on good solid rock. The routes are interesting and fun...and although some may take a bit to figure out it'll only make you stronger. Sep 9, 2008
judee  
When my wife and I were dating back in the mid 1950's, we used to climb to the top of the bluff via a path through some large boulders. At some time since then that area slewed off and is now called the Red cliff, or something like that. Back then, the park was just sand and gravel, and blackberry brush. People came there to shoot guns up against the cliff. Apr 5, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
If you're new to basalt, or otherwise unfamiliar with the crag, warm up on some easier routes. This place is infamously sandbagged, especially at the lower grades. Oct 8, 2015