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Areas in Broughton Bluff

(1) North Face 8 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
(2) Hanging Gardens 19 / 3 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
(3) Red Wall 7 / 12 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
(4) Spring Rock 4 / 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
(5) Bat Wall 2 / 19 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 23
(6) Berlin Wall 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
(7) Jungle Cliff 2 / 25 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
(8) New Frontier 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 37 ft
GPS: 45.541, -122.38 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 129,147 total, 892/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

Description

Comprised of around a dozen cliffs on the outskirts of Portland, Broughton Bluff provides easy access for the local urban climber. Many quality routes ranging from 5.6 topropes to 5.12 leads on BroughtonÂ’s jumbled basalt cliffs are available for climbers of all abilities.

Climbing is possible all year at Broughton but can be difficult in the winter due to damp and soggy conditions, unless you can climb 5.12. Late Spring, Summer, and Fall are best.

Getting There

Broughton Bluff is located at the mouth of the Columbia Gorge near the town of Troutdale. Take I-84 East from Portland to the Lewis & Clark State Park exit, turn left at the stop sign and drive under the railroad bridge, then park in the parking lot on the left. Take the trail leading towards the hillside and follow it up for a few hundred meters to the cliffs.

113 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Broughton Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Sickle
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Edges and Ledges
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Classic Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gandalf's Grip
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheer Stress
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheer Energy
Trad, Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Eye
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Superstition
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Thai Stick
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lost Boys
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Critical Mass
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pinhead
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kashmir
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dracula
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bad Omen
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Sickle (2) Hanging Gardens 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Edges and Ledges (2) Hanging Gardens 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Classic Crack (3) Red Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Gandalf's Grip (1) N Face 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Sheer Stress (3) Red Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sheer Energy (3) Red Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Red Eye (3) Red Wall 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Superstition (5) Bat Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Thai Stick (3) Red Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Lost Boys (5) Bat Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Critical Mass (3) Red Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Pinhead (3) Red Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Kashmir (3) Red Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dracula (5) Bat Wall 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bad Omen (5) Bat Wall 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
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Weather Averages

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hemp22  
I-84 is closed starting at Exit 17 (before the bridge), but you should be able to take exit 17, cross the river in troutdale (by the RV park), and get to the park that way. Sep 15, 2017
Hey there,
Anyone know if the fires have effected Broughton's Bluff access?
I think Troutdale is still where I-84 is closed Sep 14, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
If you're new to basalt, or otherwise unfamiliar with the crag, warm up on some easier routes. This place is infamously sandbagged, especially at the lower grades. Oct 8, 2015
judee  
When my wife and I were dating back in the mid 1950's, we used to climb to the top of the bluff via a path through some large boulders. At some time since then that area slewed off and is now called the Red cliff, or something like that. Back then, the park was just sand and gravel, and blackberry brush. People came there to shoot guns up against the cliff. Apr 5, 2014
doggy  
WOW!! This is one of the best climbing areas in Portland. It offers a little bit of everything on good solid rock. The routes are interesting and fun...and although some may take a bit to figure out it'll only make you stronger. Sep 9, 2008
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
Also, don't leave your stuff in the car. There have been numberous break-ins here with alot of gear getting stolen in the past. I myself have seen broken windows in the parking lot. It's sad but true. Just take everything with you or lock it up out of sight. Apr 14, 2006
Dannyr  
Many areas in Oregon have poison oak, but Broughton is thick with the stuff. Watch out for it! Feb 14, 2006

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