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Routes in (7) Jungle Cliff

Amazon Woman T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Closed Project 1 S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Closed Project 2 S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Crime Wave T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Ecocide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Enter The Void S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Firestorm S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forced March S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forged In The Flames S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gorilla Love Affair S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Green Scare S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Heart of Darkness S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Minimancer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mowgli Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mowgli's Revenge S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Necromancer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Open Project--Jungle Boogie S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Open Project--Sowerby Roofs. S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Open Project--The Groove. S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Oracle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slash and Burn S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tarzan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Total Liberation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Warlock S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wretched Love Affair S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wretched of the Earth, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Sean da Costa, Charlie Egan
Page Views: 1,107 total, 43/month
Shared By: Sean da Costa on Oct 13, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Thin technical start (crux) in a shallow dihedral gives way to good rests before a left-trending traverse under a roof on decent holds. Continue moving left through a small corner, around a massive flake, and up another small corner before ending at a two-bolt anchor on a ledge.

Things to consider: As with all new Jungle Cliff routes, Ecocide is a little dusty. The best way to clean it is to climb it. So climb it! Also, after the first 20 feet, this route continuously trends left to the anchors, making it tricky to clean when being lowered. It is advised if possible to clean via following the route.

Location

Starts in a shallow dihedral under a roof, begins trending left after the third bolt

Protection

Seven bolts to a two bolt anchor. All bolts 1/2", stainless steel, and perma-drawed.

Photos

Laura Bauer
  5.11a
Laura Bauer  
  5.11a
Awesome route! Goes from tricky and technical to fun and exposed. Love! Nov 19, 2016
dmPete
  5.11a
dmPete  
  5.11a
Brilliant route! Super fun, memorable, juggy climbing following the technical crux! Jul 19, 2016
Kyle Terry
  5.11a
Kyle Terry  
  5.11a
All the bolts are perma-drawed now. There's no need to bring quick draws unless you are setting up a top rope (please only top rope on your own gear). Jul 7, 2016
Kyle Terry
  5.11a
Kyle Terry  
  5.11a
I love this route. The bottom section is pretty stiff, though. I have taken a major fall right at, but before clipping the second bolt and I didn't come anywhere near decking. That first bolt placement is pretty perfect.

Two permadraws were added to the first couple bolts bringing the total to 4 permadraws on the route. This makes cleaning much much easier.

As soon as I can get some climbtech cable draws, I will install them on the rest of the bolts. This is with the blessing of the original people who developed the route. May 23, 2016
Chris Winter
Portland, OR
 
Chris Winter   Portland, OR
 
Nice addition to the crag. Technical crux down low to typical Broughtons chicanery to get into the traverse. Mar 31, 2016
Sean da Costa
Portland, OR
 
Sean da Costa   Portland, OR
 
Two new developments:

1. The fourth bolt on this route was relpaced due to it constantly spinning loose. The new bolt is in a position that is more evenly spaced and in a more direct bolt line. I think the reason for it spinning was due to it being under a lip and slightly off the bolt line. Hopefully this will negate the problem. You still clip from the same stance and the new bolt is also 1/2" and stainless steel.

2. I was climbing the route yesterday and at the 5th bolt in the flakes a bat started to screach at me. I am not sure if this is a normal bat home or this particular bat was just taking a layover, but beware unless you want to get bitten by an angry bat. Dec 4, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.11a
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.11a
Fun route, with some tricky, powerful moves before the first bolt, and then an interesting crux up higher. Rest of the route is pretty cruiser. Nov 8, 2015
Great choice on material for the bolting, thanks for your share and work!

Any chance of a photo and topo overlay? ;) Oct 14, 2015
Charlie Egan
  5.11a
Charlie Egan  
  5.11a
Fun and interesting route. Highly recommended. The crux hits low--bring a stick clip! Oct 14, 2015