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Routes in (7) Jungle Cliff

Amazon Woman T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Crime Wave S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Ecocide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Enter The Void S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Firestorm S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forced March S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forged In The Flames S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gorilla Love Affair S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Scare S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Heart of Darkness S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
King Louie S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Minimancer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mowgli Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mowgli's Revenge S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Necromancer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Open Project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Open Project--Jungle Boogie S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Open Project--Sowerby Roofs. S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Open Project--The Groove. S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Oracle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slash and Burn S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tarzan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Total Liberation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Warlock S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wretched Love Affair S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wretched of the Earth, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Sean da Costa
Page Views: 361 total · 33/month
Shared By: Sean da Costa on Sep 25, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Distinguished by three distinct sections separated by bulges, as well as having a bit of an adventurous feel from losing sight of the belayer early on, this route is a solid addition to an already great wall. Start up a shallow dihedral to a rest under a major bulge, then fire through the bulge to a slightly slabby section. Follow this section into a few small bulges and a corner that eventually rounds off to the anchors on a ledge.

Typical jungle cliff new route warning: jungle cliff can be pretty dirty/dusty, especially the new routes. Accordingly, I have put over 6 hours in just cleaning/scrubbing this route, and others have put in several hours as well. However, it is still dirty, expect this. But at the same time, this route is really fun so don't let a little dirt scare you off!

Also, in the process of cleaning this route I fell off the end of my fixed line and had to go to the hospital to get 27 stitches. Don't let my suffering be for nothing!

This route was named after a great Earth Crisis song, and was FA-ed in the smoke of the Eagle Creek fire. Get it?! Climb this route after Firestorm (another Earth Crisis song from the same record) and you may just become straight edge
youtube.com/watch?v=-c1aXBm…

Location

This route lives just to the right of Ecocide, in front of a small tree/large bush and a large rock shaped like a blade.

Protection

12 bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains and winch hooks. All bolts are 1/2" and stainless steel, and the first five have fixed draws for ease of cleaning. Note that the opening to the winch hooks are not super large, so getting a rope over 10.5mm into them may be a tight squeeze.

Photos

Antoine Delorme
Portland, OR
  5.11d
Antoine Delorme   Portland, OR
  5.11d
Sean, thanks for the great new route! I sent it yesterday and had tons of fun on it. Pulling the roof at the 4th bolt was the crux for me, the lack of feet and the dustiness of the handholds made it pretty desperate for me, but what a fun sequence getting there! Super nice addition to a cliff that does not stop to get better! Oct 1, 2017

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