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The Wretched of the Earth
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 27
votes
Routes in (9) Jungle Cliff
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(Link-up) Wretched Love Affair S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Amazon Woman T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Crime Wave S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ecocide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Enter The Void S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Firestorm S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Forged In The Flames S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gorilla Love Affair S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Green Scare S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Heart of Darkness S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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King Louie S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Law of the Jungle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Minimancer S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mowgli Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mowgli's Revenge S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Necromancer S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Neuromancer S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ngogo S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Open Project--Jungle Boogie S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Open Project--The Groove. S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Oracle S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silver Back S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Slash and Burn S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Tarzan S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Total Depravity S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Total Liberation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Under the Yum Yum Tree S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Warlock S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Welcome to the Jungle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wretched of the Earth, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Charlie Egan |
| Page Views: | 2,179 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Charlie Egan on May 28, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
Description
Three distinct sections separated by two great rests. The first crux is bizarre flared chimney. Pull through this to gain a no hands rest followed by relatively mild climbing above. Save some juice for a bouldery second crux right before the chains.
Don't stop at the lower Heart of Darkness anchor! Continue up ~15ft to the higher HoD anchor.
I have a feeling this will clean up into a really good route. Now, like all the unclimbed sections of the Jungle Wall, it is unreasonably dusty.
I'm really curious to see where the grade lands. I'm putting it at 12a and that feels about right for my beta on the redpoint. That said, I'm sure someone will figure out a better sequence for the first crux than my wacky kneebar shenanigans, and with less dust on the holds and smears it's very possible that it will feel more like 5.11+.
10 Comments