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The Wretched of the Earth
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.3 from 6
votes
Routes in (7) Jungle Cliff
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Amazon Woman T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crime Wave S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Ecocide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Enter The Void S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Firestorm S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Forced March S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Forged In The Flames S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gorilla Love Affair S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Green Scare S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Heart of Darkness S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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King Louie S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Minimancer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mowgli Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mowgli's Revenge S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Necromancer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Open Project S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Open Project--Jungle Boogie S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Open Project--Sowerby Roofs. S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Open Project--The Groove. S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Oracle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Slash and Burn S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tarzan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Total Liberation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Warlock S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wretched Love Affair S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wretched of the Earth, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft |
| FA: | Charlie Egan |
| Page Views: | 472 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Charlie Egan on May 28, 2015 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
Your Star Rating:
Description
Three distinct sections separated by two great rests. The first crux is bizarre flared chimney. Pull through this to gain a no hands rest followed by relatively mild climbing above. Save some juice for a bouldery second crux right before the chains.
Don't stop at the lower Heart of Darkness anchor! The route continues up ~15ft to a higher anchor.
I have a feeling this will clean up into a really good route. Now, like all the unclimbed sections of the Jungle Wall, it is unreasonably dusty.
I'm really curious to see where the grade lands. I'm putting it at 12a and that feels about right for my beta on the redpoint. That said, I'm sure someone will figure out a better sequence for the first crux than my wacky kneebar shenanigans, and with less dust on the holds and smears it's very possible that it will feel more like 5.11+.
Don't stop at the lower Heart of Darkness anchor! The route continues up ~15ft to a higher anchor.
I have a feeling this will clean up into a really good route. Now, like all the unclimbed sections of the Jungle Wall, it is unreasonably dusty.
I'm really curious to see where the grade lands. I'm putting it at 12a and that feels about right for my beta on the redpoint. That said, I'm sure someone will figure out a better sequence for the first crux than my wacky kneebar shenanigans, and with less dust on the holds and smears it's very possible that it will feel more like 5.11+.
Portland, OR
Portland, OR
The 3rd bolt was loose and I could move the actual hexagonal bolt by hand. I did not have a wrench with me, but if somebody gets there soon, please give it a good tight. Jan 28, 2017