Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Charlie Egan
Page Views: 653 total · 12/month
Shared By: Charlie Egan on May 28, 2015
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Three distinct sections separated by two great rests. The first crux is bizarre flared chimney. Pull through this to gain a no hands rest followed by relatively mild climbing above. Save some juice for a bouldery second crux right before the chains.

Don't stop at the lower Heart of Darkness anchor! The route continues up ~15ft to a higher anchor.

I have a feeling this will clean up into a really good route. Now, like all the unclimbed sections of the Jungle Wall, it is unreasonably dusty.

I'm really curious to see where the grade lands. I'm putting it at 12a and that feels about right for my beta on the redpoint. That said, I'm sure someone will figure out a better sequence for the first crux than my wacky kneebar shenanigans, and with less dust on the holds and smears it's very possible that it will feel more like 5.11+.

Location

Just right of Gorilla Love Affair.

Protection

Bolts

Photos