Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Alex Borst. Bolts by Micah Klesick, Sean da Costa, and Erik Jenson
Page Views: 593 total · 18/month
Shared By: Charlie Egan on Apr 12, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

A stout alternate start to Oracle. Warlock ascends a gently overhanging prow with a distinct, powerful, unique crux.

This line was the inspiration for Micah Klesick to begin bolting new lines at the Jungle Cliff and recruiting others to take it on, setting off the recent wave of development.

After two bolts of moderate climbing, bust into a v9 boulder problem navigating the horn and a small crack/pocket, around the third bolt. From the giant jug at the end of the boulder problem, cut left and finish on the remainder of Oracle.

Still very dusty. Bring a brush.

Location

Immediately to the right of the Oracle/Necromancer start

Protection

Bolts

Photos

peachy spohn
  5.13a/b
peachy spohn  
  5.13a/b
Way to go Alex! Apr 14, 2016
peachy spohn
  5.13a/b
peachy spohn  
  5.13a/b
I repeated this today and had the third bolt hanger rip out on my second go :/
I have the chain and hanger if anyone would like to replace it. To comment on the route, It is really fun. I felt that the crux was hard but not consistent with the rest of the climbing and so not pumpy or that committing to redpoint (the crux is very low on the route and if you're doing it the rest of the route will be no problem). The Oracle finish, my first time on that, has great moves but is very dirty. I hope these get cleaned up because they're fun additions. Apr 16, 2016
Charlie Egan
  5.13b/c
Charlie Egan  
  5.13b/c
I replaced the hanger on the crux bolt. My only guess as to why the nut of the bolt would unscrew is that rope drag caused the chain draw to pull the hanger in a way that slowly loosened the nut. If the new hanger becomes loose again, I'll add loktite to secure it in place. Apr 18, 2016