Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (7) Jungle Cliff

Amazon Woman T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Closed Project 1 S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Closed Project 2 S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Crime Wave T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Ecocide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Enter The Void S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Firestorm S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Forced March S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forged In The Flames S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gorilla Love Affair S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Green Scare S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Heart of Darkness S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Minimancer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mowgli Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mowgli's Revenge S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Necromancer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Open Project--Jungle Boogie S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Open Project--Sowerby Roofs. S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Open Project--The Groove. S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Oracle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Slash and Burn S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tarzan S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Total Liberation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Warlock S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wretched Love Affair S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wretched of the Earth, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Sean da Costa
Page Views: 221 total, 9/month
Shared By: Sean da Costa on Nov 21, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route starts about 100 feet off the ground and heads up a slab over the enormous roof on the upper left side of the Jungle Cliff. The route is characterized by an extremely airy start to technical finesse moves on side-pulls and crimps up an 80 degree slab. The crux features thin, delicate moves with marginal feet. Though this route is relatively short, it feels pretty adventurous and gripping for the location and grade.

Location

The route starts about 100' up on the top of the Wretched of the Earth Extension and heads up the slab that caps the major roof on the left side of the wall. To get down, rap or lower from the top anchors to the belay anchor. From there, a 70 meter rope rap will get you to the gound. I don't believe a 60 meter rope will make it, FYI.

NOTE: Though there are bolts leading to the start of the route via WotE extension, that extension has not yet been cleaned up and freed. Extreme caution is advised if thinking about accessing the route via that approach. As of the posting of this page, there is a fixed line to the belay anchor which can be used to access the climb. However, PLEASE DON'T REMOVE ANY FIXED LINES AND GEAR. These lines are up there for developing other routes in the vicinity and are people's personal property. Thanks in advance.

Protection

Two bolt belay anchor to four bolts finishing with another two bolt anchor with rap rings. All bolts are 3/8" stainless steel.
Charlie Egan  
 
However it is approached, this pitch offers technical moves and excellent position. One the of the best at the grade in the area, for sure. Nov 22, 2015
Charlie Egan  
 
The traverse that you mention is what Sean is referring to as the WotE extension.

I went for the lead on it, but bailed and jugged the fixed line when things got sketchy. The traverse currently has lots of loose rock on it, and some of it would be in a perfect spot to slice your rope. It was mellow until the final 'slot' before the anchor, then lots of holds started breaking. It's possible that a new sequence will emerge when we take the choss off, or we might have to approach the route from another direction. We will see. Nov 22, 2015
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
So the original way to reach the upper pitches was to go to the WotE upper anchor, and then traverse under the roof to the right on the old bolts that are there, and then up, which would be the same to reach the belay anchors for Enter the Void. Supposedly this traverse went at 5.10+. I haven't tried it, so I don't know for sure. Nov 21, 2015