Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft (30 m)|
|Page Views:||704 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Micah Klesick on Oct 28, 2015|
|Admins:||Roberta Zouain, Kristy Tippey, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
The best approach to this route is through Forced March, by skipping every other clip or clipping/unclipping bolts. Make sure to use an extended sling at the anchors at the start of the route, passed the Forced March anchors (make sure to unclip these anchors, or rope drag could be bad.)
The climb can be divided in 3 sections: first climb a tricky dihedral for 2 bolts. Clipping the second bolt can be a bit reachy for short people. You will have to trust your feet through dihedral stemming to make it to the better holds. After the dihedral, you will traverse to the right under a small roof, on better holds, before starting the second section of powerful undercling moves for another 2 bolts. You will get a good shake at the point where this route splits from Jungle Boogie. The route up to that point is probably around 5.12a. Make sure you feel fresh and rested before continuing the route as it will get much harder.
The last section is moving left and up on the final 2 bolts. The climbing feels like a tough V6/V7 boulder problem. The last few moves to the anchors are much easier but due to the insecure position could get you if you are pumped.
Overall, a really nice addition and a fairly clean route. But as usual at Broughton, it will get dirty after a few weeks of not being climbed. Thanks Micah for this great line!