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Routes in (3) Red Wall

Anastasia TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arch de Triumph T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arcturus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Classic Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conspiracy (aka Kashmir Direct), The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Critical Mass S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hard Body S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hit The Highway Pitch 1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hit the Highway T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kashmir S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr. Bentley TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
No Friction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
On the Loose TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Opus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Physical Graffiti T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pinhead S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Red Eye S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sheer Energy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sheer Stress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shoot From the Hip T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Thai Stick S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trailer Park Sunset S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
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Description

A major destination of the area. A complicated mixture of bolts and gear, with some that are purely one or the other. A low ledge system defines the top of the most popular climbs on the taller left side, while crack columns and technical/awkward face climbing define the smaller right side. Some of the best pure crack climbing at the Bluff are represented by Classic Crack, the overhang of Physical Graffiti, and the second pitch of Sheer Stress. On the other hand, some clip-up gems like the first pitch of Red Eye, the striking line of Critical Mass, and the short tricky Thai Stick provide a very different experience. With a little attention to detail, this wall will keep you coming back for more.

Getting There

Turn right once you meet the Hanging Gardens wall. The wall with the stretcher is the Red Wall.

22 Total Climbs

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Location: (3) Red Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Red Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 132
Classic Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 60
Sheer Stress
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 43
Sheer Energy
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Hit The Highway Pitch 1
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 73
Red Eye
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 28
Shoot From the Hip
Trad, Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 62
Thai Stick
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 6
Physical Graffiti
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
On the Loose
TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 31
Hard Body
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 35
Critical Mass
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 9
Mr. Bentley
TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 26
Pinhead
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 29
Kashmir
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Classic Crack
 132
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sheer Stress
 60
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sheer Energy
 43
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Hit The Highway Pitch 1
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Red Eye
 73
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Shoot From the Hip
 28
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Sport
Thai Stick
 62
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Physical Graffiti
 6
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
On the Loose
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Hard Body
 31
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
Critical Mass
 35
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Mr. Bentley
 9
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a TR
Pinhead
 26
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Kashmir
 29
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Red Wall »

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Todd Deweber
Portland, OR
Todd Deweber   Portland, OR
Anyone know what the bolted route is between Pinhead and the second pitch of Sheer Stress??? I can't find it on MP or in the PRC book. It's a little confusing since most descriptions of Pinhead say it's the next line left of P2 of Sheer Stress. Jul 3, 2018
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Hey Todd: If you count the "2nd pitch" bolt lines from left to right it should go: Red Eye, The Conspiracy (not sure if this is a distinct line), Critical Mass, then Pinhead. Does the route go straight up from the Sheer Stress/Energy P1 anchor? Jul 4, 2018
hemp22  
Hm - did it look like new bolts? I don't recall there ever being a line between Pinhead and the 2nd pitch of sheer stress. I haven't been up on that part of the wall this year though Jul 5, 2018
I bolted the line between Pinhead and Sheer Stress P2, but never came back to redpoint it. It has some thin moves, maybe 12/12+? It's open if anyone wants to try it. You could also easily link the crux of the new line into the crux moves of Pinhead for a harder linkup. Aug 5, 2018
Todd Deweber
Portland, OR
Todd Deweber   Portland, OR
Cool thanks Charlie Aug 5, 2018
Charlie/Todd, I did it a year or so ago (thinking it was open - not really knowing). I thought it was "height dependent" 12d. The crux is stout, but short lived. Could easily be 13a too. Really fun addition to the wall, Charlie. We've been calling it Trailer Park Sunset. Sep 19, 2018

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