Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Stark Ligon, Summer '18
Page Views: 274 total · 49/month
Shared By: Stark on Mar 7, 2019
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Excellent new addition to the Bat Wall. Definitely a "trad climbers sport climb". Lots of crack, corner, stemming, classic bat wall tickery. Bring your full rack of skills but leave the cams on the ground cause this thing has plenty of bolts. The opening is a bit tricky as you lieback and stem you way up the obvious crack corner to a good stance in the dihedral under the crux of Gold Arch. From here make a hard move left to the obvious arete, and crank on around the corner to gain the big flake. Grab a good rest then crank another couple of moves up and left to easier climbing and the base of the obvious steep dihedral above. Killer stemming and good flakes await in the corner. Step right when the holds run out and enjoy wild positioning to gain another perch and a good shake. The final pumper crux above through the scoped out dihedral with undercling flakes and a few more body lengths of lower angle 5.10 and you have this beast in the bag! There's a set of anchors at 100' (60m rope). For Extra points continue up and left for 2 more bolts of quality 5.10 climbing to another set of anchors at 115' (70m rope required)

Location

Starts 10 feet right of Well Hung on the far right side of Bat Wall

Protection

16 bolts to the first set of anchors (100')
 18 bolts to the second set (115').
Mussy hooks on both anchors.

Photos