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Scottish Variation
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Bat Wall
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Bad Omen S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Bad Vampress [L] S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Bat Wall Traverse, The 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b V6 7A |
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Bela Lugosi S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bitenight [L] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bloodline S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Bloodsucker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Count Chalkula S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Danse Macabre S,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dark Arts S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dark Shadows T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Darkness Falls S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dracula S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Epitaph S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Frightlight [L] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Frightnight S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Full Blood Sucker [E] S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Full Gold [E] S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Full Manson Family Reunion [L] S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Gallows [E], The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Go Back to the Gym (old AID Route) A3 |
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Gold Arch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Grave Digger S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Hanging Judge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Haunting, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Hunger, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Line Danse, Sucka! [L] S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Lost Boys S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Manson Family Reunion S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mystic Boyz [L] S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mystic Void S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Natural Mystic [E] S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nosferatu S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Old Transylvania Highway [L] S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Open Project: Count Chalkula Extension S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Predator S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Remain in Light S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Revenant S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scottish Abattoir [L] S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Scottish Variation T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Supernatural S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Superstition S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sutured by the Vampress S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Thirst, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tombraider S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Undercount, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Vampyr S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Vlad the Impaler [L] S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Well Digger [L] S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Well Hung S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Well of Greed [L] S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Witch Hunt S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Witching Hour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 45.53901, -122.37471 |
| FA: | Dave Sowerby and Greg Murray |
| Page Views: | 466 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Patrick Thorpe on Jul 13, 2023 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Nate Ball |
Description
A blocky, slabby start with two bolts leads to a leftward traverse into a featured crack. Protect the crack with big gear (range of .75-#3) to have a piece of protection between bolts 2 and 3. Once you clip bolt three, flip the switch and GRRR your way onto the face to your right. Follow a right-leaning lip with fun movement to a slab finish.
The bolt and trad gear under the roof will likely cause some rope drag. The route is short enough that minimal management is necessary but it's worth a mention.
NOTE: This route is the first to get wet during the rainy months. As a result, it needs some gardening and excavating at the beginning of each season. Bring some gloves, clippers, and a brush to scrub the mud off the holds at the beginning of the dry season--particularly at the slab at the top. The route can be accessed from the Hanging Judge anchors which are above and slightly to the right of the Scottish Variation anchors.
Protection
Five bolts. Crack protection between bolts 2 and 3 takes any piece of gear between .75 - #3 (.75 at the bottom, widening to #3 at the top). There are two bolts and chains at the top. We put two wire gate carabiners on the chains to temporarily equip the route, but note that those are not a permanent fixture.
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