[Hide Comment] Warning! Moderate spoilers may follow...

On P1, A runner on the bolt before the crux bolt (the crux bolt being the one protecting the short traverse under the roof) will definitely help reduce rope drag. The same goes for the cam placement after the crux; I believe there is also a spot for a .5 c4 a bit higher than where the .3 (or #2 c3) would go.

I submit that this is the best 5.10 at Broughton. Feel free to disagree and a lively discussion thread shall ensue :) Jun 2, 2012

[Hide Comment] Excellent route! The traverse move isn't too bad if you get the right sequence and trust the feet. While definitely four stars, I think Lost Boys gets my vote for best Broughton 10. If you buy that it's a 10, that is... May 2, 2013

[Hide Comment] Such an excellent climb!! The variation in movement and style makes it so fun and interesting. That being said, it can be difficult to clean due to the traverse. Having someone follow is probably best if possible. Have fun! Nov 19, 2016

[Hide Comment] So, the gear placement is no longer necessary? Carrying that single piece was just too much weight? Also it seems to have gained a bolt at the crux? The neutering of Broughton continues. Dec 19, 2019

[Hide Comment] Consider bringing gear for the top if you want to protect the finish. The final bolt has been removed as of 10/17/2020. Oct 21, 2020

[Hide Comment] The last bolt before the anchors was recently *removed* -- at some point between August and end of October. You can easily protect with a BD .5 or just run it out since it's just one or two moves to the chains.

Not sure why the bolt was removed. IMO the placement is as easy, if not easier than the bolt. I've seen enough newer climbers struggle on that move to warrant some protection against a potentially dicey whip. Oct 30, 2020

[Hide Comment] A better question is why it was placed. Until the recent spurt of development at the Bat Wall, this route had always required a gear placement after the traverse. Now I would wholeheartedly support a conversation about why one of the most popular routes at a wall where crack-bolting ethic goes back to the 80's should require a single piece of trad gear, but that conversation needs to be had with the remaining FAists before the bolts go in. Nov 1, 2020

[Hide Comment] Heads up! To the right of the traverse in the dihedral near the top is a series of detached flakes/blocks that have a decent amount of flex to them. They don't appear to be in danger of imminent failure but if they went it would be a large microwave sized block headed straight for the belayer / anyone lounging on the rocks below. Dec 7, 2020

[Hide Comment] The microwave-sized rest jug and fin at the top of the crack right before the crux traverse moved significantly when I pulled on it today. When I unweighted it I heard a big THUNK as it fell back into place. I’m thinking it’s time for some glue behind this thing…or maybe even a very careful trundle. I would not be surprised if the whole thing, and the accompanying pillar of rock below it (already x’d out) comes off soon. Feb 5, 2022

[Hide Comment] A year later and the X blocks still there, still wobbling. Not impossible to avoid them but they're nice to have. Avoiding them might bump things up a letter on account of not getting a shake before the crux.

Regardless, a damn fun climb. Just tell your belayer to be heads up, they can hug the wall and miss any falling rock.

Anyone a rock-gluing expert? Jan 25, 2023