Madrone Wall Rock Climbing
|GPS:||45.39, -122.458 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Micah Klesick on Jan 22, 2006|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionMadrone Wall was officially opened on October 21st, 2017 after a 20 year battle to convince the county to turn the area into a park instead of a quarry. Much thanks to the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee for all their hard work!
Make sure to check out the county park website for the rules on parking fees which are $5 daily. There are (semi-)annual passes available for purchase by calling the park office. Also, inform yourself about the daily opening and closing hours (they change seasonally) and the annual peregrine falcon closure.
The climbing here is awesome, and features a wide variety of styles and grades, and most certainly has something you'll enjoy climbing. A lot of the routes here are trad or mixed, so make sure you have a rack with you. A 60m rope will work on all routes here.
Lead bolts have almost all been updated, and all routes now have bolted anchors. Most of these have hardware for lowering off, and this method is recommended, though rappelling is required in a few cases. Historically, many routes required you to top out and/or used trees for anchors, but this has been eliminated in order to reduce rockfall and poison oak exposure.
Poison oak is rampant here, both on the wall in places, and along the trail, so tread carefully and be cautious where your rope and gear are set down.
As this is a recently reopened area, garden clippers and a nylon brush are recommended for cleaning routes, as many of them haven't been climbed much and need a little love.
There are two guidebooks that feature Madrone. The most up-to-date one is the Madrone and Carver Cliffs guidebook available via Rakkup. The Portland Rock Climbs guidebook by Tim Olson also contains the area, but it is very out-of-date: trail information, route grades, anchor positions, bolt counts, etc will differ from what is listed in here.
Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details
The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect "potentially" nesting peregrine falcons. Historically, they have nested on the Shining Wall, and have been present recently. Observations are planned to determine if they are nesting on a year-to-year basis and thus whether or not the closure is necessary. Please respect this process and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website - clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page - facebook.com/madronewall/.
Thank you for respecting this process.
Thank you for respecting this process.
Getting ThereHead SE on Hwy 224 towards and then through Carver. Madrone is on the left hand side, just past 197th Ave, right about 2.3 miles past Carver. Road up to the cliff has a yellow gate. If the gate is closed, the park is closed. Do not walk past the closed gate. The only parking is at the top of the drive, and there is about 20 spots to park. Please carpool if possible.
When you get to the parking lot, pay your parking fee, and then head up one of two trails. The trail on the south side of the lot goes up a few rock steps, and then travels through some steep steps to the Hardscrabble Wall.
The main trail is located just off the gravel path by the kiosk on the north side of the lot. This trail will meet the cliff in the middle of the Main Wall. To the left will be the left side of the Main Wall, 4th Class Wall, Orange Wall and Left Corner Wall. To the right will be the right side of the Main Wall, Shining Wall, and then Hardscrabble Wall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Madrone Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season