Madrone Wall Rock Climbing
|GPS:||45.39, -122.458 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
|Page Views:||89,263 total · 511/month|
|Shared By:||Micah Klesick on Jan 22, 2006|
Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
History (Admin Only): Nate Ball edited "Description" Dec 27, 2018
Make sure to check out the county park website for the rules on parking fees which are $6 daily. There are 6-month ($25) and annual ($40) passes available for purchase by calling the park office. Also, inform yourself about the daily opening and closing hours (they change seasonally) and the annual peregrine falcon closure.
The climbing here is awesome, and features a wide variety of styles and grades, and most certainly has something you'll enjoy climbing. A lot of the routes here are trad or mixed, so make sure you have a rack with you. A 60m rope will work on all routes here.
Lead bolts have almost all been updated, and all routes now have bolted anchors. Most of these have hardware for lowering off, and this method is recommended, though rappelling is required in a few cases. Historically, many routes required you to top out and/or used trees for anchors, but this has been eliminated in order to reduce rockfall and poison oak exposure.
Poison oak is rampant here, both on the wall in places, and along the trail, so tread carefully and be cautious where your rope and gear are set down. Though a lot of work has been done to clean the area up, garden clippers and a nylon brush are often handy, as the recent re-opening and the falcon closures mean that some routes remain a little dirty.
There are two guidebooks that feature Madrone. The most up-to-date one is the Madrone and Carver Cliffs guidebook available via Rakkup. The Portland Rock Climbs guidebook by Tim Olson also contains the area, but it is very out-of-date: trail information, route grades, anchor positions, bolt counts, etc will differ from what is listed in here.
When you get to the parking lot, pay your parking fee, and then head up one of two trails. The trail on the south side of the lot goes up a few rock steps, and then travels through some steep steps to the Hardscrabble Wall.
The main trail is located just off the gravel path by the kiosk on the north side of the lot. This trail will meet the cliff in the middle of the Main Wall. To the left will be the left side of the Main Wall, 4th Class Wall, Orange Wall and Left Corner Wall. To the right will be the right side of the Main Wall, Shining Wall, and then Hardscrabble Wall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Madrone Wall
Days w Precip