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Areas in Madrone Wall

(1) Left Corner Wall 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
(2) Orange Wall 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
(3) Fourth Class Wall 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
(4) Main Wall 9 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
(5) Shining Wall 13 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
(6) Hardscrabble Wall 17 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Madrone Wall was officially opened on October 21st, 2017 after a 20 year battle to convince the county to turn the area into a park instead of a quarry. Much thanks to the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee for all their hard work!

Make sure to check out the county park website for the rules on parking fees which are $5 daily. There are (semi-)annual passes available for purchase by calling the park office. Also, inform yourself about the daily opening and closing hours (they change seasonally) and the annual peregrine falcon closure.

The climbing here is awesome, and features a wide variety of styles and grades, and most certainly has something you'll enjoy climbing. A lot of the routes here are trad or mixed, so make sure you have a rack with you. A 60m rope will work on all routes here.

Lead bolts have almost all been updated, and all routes now have bolted anchors. Most of these have hardware for lowering off, and this method is recommended, though rappelling is required in a few cases. Historically, many routes required you to top out and/or used trees for anchors, but this has been eliminated in order to reduce rockfall and poison oak exposure.

Poison oak is rampant here, both on the wall in places, and along the trail, so tread carefully and be cautious where your rope and gear are set down.
As this is a recently reopened area, garden clippers and a nylon brush are recommended for cleaning routes, as many of them haven't been climbed much and need a little love.

There are two guidebooks that feature Madrone. The most up-to-date one is the Madrone and Carver Cliffs guidebook available via Rakkup. The Portland Rock Climbs guidebook by Tim Olson also contains the area, but it is very out-of-date: trail information, route grades, anchor positions, bolt counts, etc will differ from what is listed in here.

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Head SE on Hwy 224 towards and then through Carver. Madrone is on the left hand side, just past 197th Ave, right about 2.3 miles past Carver. Road up to the cliff has a yellow gate. If the gate is closed, the park is closed. Do not walk past the closed gate. The only parking is at the top of the drive, and there is about 20 spots to park. Please carpool if possible.
When you get to the parking lot, pay your parking fee, and then head up one of two trails. The trail on the south side of the lot goes up a few rock steps, and then travels through some steep steps to the Hardscrabble Wall.
The main trail is located just off the gravel path by the kiosk on the north side of the lot. This trail will meet the cliff in the middle of the Main Wall. To the left will be the left side of the Main Wall, 4th Class Wall, Orange Wall and Left Corner Wall. To the right will be the right side of the Main Wall, Shining Wall, and then Hardscrabble Wall.

66 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Madrone Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Double Dutch Left
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Catharsis P1
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 10
Rising Desperation
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Paleontologist
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Red Sun Rising
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 5
Ant Abuse
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Wild Blue Yonder
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Nouveau Riche
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Superstrings
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
It Takes a Thief
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Firing Line
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 4
Mr. Noodle Arm Goes Limp
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Comfortizer
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 10
Wild Things
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 3
The Shining
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Double Dutch Left (4) Main Wall
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Catharsis P1 (4) Main Wall
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Rising Desperation (4) Main Wall
 10
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Paleontologist (5) Shining Wall
 8
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Red Sun Rising (6) Hardscrabble Wall
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Ant Abuse (4) Main Wall
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Wild Blue Yonder (2) Orange Wall
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Nouveau Riche (6) Hardscrabble Wall
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Superstrings (4) Main Wall
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
It Takes a Thief (6) Hardscrabble Wall
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Firing Line (5) Shining Wall
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Mr. Noodle Arm Goes Limp (4) Main Wall
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad
Comfortizer (2) Orange Wall
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Wild Things (2) Orange Wall
 10
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
The Shining (5) Shining Wall
 3
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Madrone Wall »

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Grant Garrett
Portland, OR
Grant Garrett   Portland, OR
Clackamas County will open the Madrone Wall Park on Saturday, Oct. 21 2017.

The park is open seasonally from July through January, and closed from February through June to protect nesting peregrine falcons that inhabit the rock wall during those months.

Park hours of operation have been set as:
  • July/August: 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.
  • September/October: 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.
  • November through January: 7 a.m. to 4 p.m.

While there is no fee to enter or use the park, there is a $5 parking fee.

Fires, alcohol, glass beverage containers, weapons, and fireworks are all prohibited inside the park by County Code. There is also no camping allowed, no firewood gathering or cutting, and dogs/pets must be kept on leashes at all times inside the park.

Parking is limited at Madrone Wall Park. Our conditional use permit only allowed for the construction of 20 parking stalls and 2 handicap parking stalls. There is no parking allowed along the park access road and Hwy 224.

Overflow parking is available at Barton Park and Carver Boat Ramp. There is also a TriMet Bus Stop (Bus Route #30) on Hwy 224 near the Madrone Wall Park access road.

The park is located in Boring at 19485 SE Highway 224, Damascus, OR

More info here Oct 19, 2017
Ryan O
Portland, OR
Ryan O   Portland, OR
Madrone Wall is open to the public starting October 21.
clackamas.us/parks/madronew… Oct 20, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
There is a lot of poison oak out here! On the trails, along the walls, on the routes... and absolutely teeming at the top of the cliff. If you've never gotten poison oak rash, don't. Avoid it like the plague. If you think you're immune, like I did, it's possible to be come un-immune. You've been warned.

Here are two pics for your reference.
cdn1.medicalnewstoday.com/c…
baynature.org/wp-content/up… Oct 31, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
After Nov. 1st, the closing time changes from 6pm to 4pm. They have been strict about enforcing this, though they said they allow a 10-minute grace period and will honk before closing the gate. Otherwise it's a $55 ticket and your car is stuck in the lot until 7am the next morning. Nov 7, 2017
Cjhult  
Madrone wall is closed as of February 1st until July 15th 2018 for Peregrine Falcon Nesting May 14, 2018

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