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Areas in Madrone Wall

(1) Left Corner Wall 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
(2) Orange Wall 6 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
(3) Fourth Class Wall 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
(4) Main Wall 12 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
(5) Shining Wall 14 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
(6) Hardscrabble Wall 21 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Elevation: 237 ft
GPS: 45.39, -122.458 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,508 total · 247/month
Shared By: Micah Klesick on Jan 22, 2006 with updates from Ryan O
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick
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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description

Madrone Wall was officially opened on October 21st, 2017 after a 20 year battle to convince the county to turn the area into a park instead of a quarry. Much thanks to the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee for all their hard work!

Make sure to check out the county park website for the rules on parking fees which are $6 daily. There are 6-month ($25) and annual ($40) passes available for purchase by calling the park office. Also, inform yourself about the daily opening and closing hours (they change seasonally) and the annual peregrine falcon closure.

The climbing here is awesome, and features a wide variety of styles and grades, and most certainly has something you'll enjoy climbing. A lot of the routes here are trad or mixed, so make sure you have a rack with you. A 60m rope will work on all routes here.

Lead bolts have almost all been updated, and all routes now have bolted anchors. Most of these have hardware for lowering off, and this method is recommended, though rappelling is required in a few cases. Historically, many routes required you to top out and/or used trees for anchors, but this has been eliminated in order to reduce rockfall and poison oak exposure.

Poison oak is rampant here, both on the wall in places, and along the trail, so tread carefully and be cautious where your rope and gear are set down. Though a lot of work has been done to clean the area up, garden clippers and a nylon brush are often handy, as the recent re-opening and the falcon closures mean that some routes haven't gotten much traffic.

There are two guidebooks that feature Madrone. The most up-to-date one is the Madrone and Carver Cliffs guidebook available via Rakkup. The Portland Rock Climbs guidebook by Tim Olson also contains the area, but it is very out-of-date: trail information, route grades, anchor positions, bolt counts, etc will differ from what is listed in here.

Getting There

Head SE on Hwy 224 towards and then through Carver. Madrone is on the left hand side, just past 197th Ave, right about 2.3 miles past Carver. Road up to the cliff has a yellow gate. If the gate is closed, the park is closed. Do not walk past the closed gate. The only parking is at the top of the drive, and there is about 20 spots to park. Please carpool if possible.
When you get to the parking lot, pay your parking fee, and then head up one of two trails. The trail on the south side of the lot goes up a few rock steps, and then travels through some steep steps to the Hardscrabble Wall.
The main trail is located just off the gravel path by the kiosk on the north side of the lot. This trail will meet the cliff in the middle of the Main Wall. To the left will be the left side of the Main Wall, 4th Class Wall, Orange Wall and Left Corner Wall. To the right will be the right side of the Main Wall, Shining Wall, and then Hardscrabble Wall.

82 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Madrone Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
Electric Everything
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Scotty Jumps Double Dutch
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Plywood Jungle
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Catharsis P1
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Tangerine Dream
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
Rising Desperation
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Paleontologist
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Red Sun Rising
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Wild Blue Yonder
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Nouveau Riche
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 5
Mr. Noodle Arm Goes Limp
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Divine Wind
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 15
Wild Things
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
The Shining
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Scott Free
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Electric Everything (6) Hardscrabble Wall
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Scotty Jumps Double Dutch (4) Main Wall
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Plywood Jungle (5) Shining Wall
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Catharsis P1 (4) Main Wall
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Tangerine Dream (2) Orange Wall
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rising Desperation (4) Main Wall
 16
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Paleontologist (5) Shining Wall
 11
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Red Sun Rising (6) Hardscrabble Wall
 18
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wild Blue Yonder (2) Orange Wall
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Nouveau Riche (6) Hardscrabble Wall
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Mr. Noodle Arm Goes Limp (4) Main Wall
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad
Divine Wind (6) Hardscrabble Wall
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Wild Things (2) Orange Wall
 15
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
The Shining (5) Shining Wall
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Scott Free (4) Main Wall
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Madrone Wall »

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Grant Garrett
Portland, OR
Grant Garrett   Portland, OR
Clackamas County will open the Madrone Wall Park on Saturday, Oct. 21 2017.

The park is open seasonally from July through January, and closed from February through June to protect nesting peregrine falcons that inhabit the rock wall during those months.

Park hours of operation have been set as:
  • July/August: 7 a.m. to 8 p.m.
  • September/October: 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.
  • November through January: 7 a.m. to 4 p.m.

While there is no fee to enter or use the park, there is a $5 parking fee.

Fires, alcohol, glass beverage containers, weapons, and fireworks are all prohibited inside the park by County Code. There is also no camping allowed, no firewood gathering or cutting, and dogs/pets must be kept on leashes at all times inside the park.

Parking is limited at Madrone Wall Park. Our conditional use permit only allowed for the construction of 20 parking stalls and 2 handicap parking stalls. There is no parking allowed along the park access road and Hwy 224.

Overflow parking is available at Barton Park and Carver Boat Ramp. There is also a TriMet Bus Stop (Bus Route #30) on Hwy 224 near the Madrone Wall Park access road.

The park is located in Boring at 19485 SE Highway 224, Damascus, OR

More info here Oct 19, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
There is a lot of poison oak out here! On the trails, along the walls, on the routes... and absolutely teeming at the top of the cliff. If you've never gotten poison oak rash, don't. Avoid it like the plague. If you think you're immune, like I did, it's possible to be come un-immune. You've been warned.

Here are two pics for your reference.
cdn1.medicalnewstoday.com/c…
baynature.org/wp-content/up… Oct 31, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
After Nov. 1st, the closing time changes from 6pm to 4pm. They have been strict about enforcing this, though they said they allow a 10-minute grace period and will honk before closing the gate. Otherwise it's a $55 ticket and your car is stuck in the lot until 7am the next morning. Nov 7, 2017
Cjhult  
Madrone wall is closed as of February 1st until July 15th 2018 for Peregrine Falcon Nesting May 14, 2018
Paul L
Portland, OR
Paul L   Portland, OR
Consider doing some community service, bring gloves and a little hand rake. There is poison oak growing out of both approach trails all over the place. It's only going to get worse, and once the leaves drop off of the plants you can't tell the poison oak from any other dead stick, until you've already got it all over yourself.
First time out there this year and it is way, way worse than I saw it last year. Will do some clean-up next time I'm out there. Jul 20, 2018
T Banch
Portland, OR
T Banch   Portland, OR
Hey all, just wanted to reiterate what Nate said about the 4 pm closing. The ranger was there right at 4 today, and while he did yell up and didn't ticket me after I ran down, two other cars weren't so lucky. Seems like there's not much of a grace period anymore since apparently it happens every day. Keep an eye on the time. 1 day ago

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