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Routes in (4) Main Wall

Ant Abuse T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Catharsis P1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Dutch Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Dutch Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Spank Mode S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Kill the Hate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lost in the Delta Neighborhood T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Mixing It Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Noodle Arm Goes Limp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pillow Talk S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Primary Gobbler T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rising Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scott Free S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scotty Hits the Warp Drive T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scotty Jumps Double Dutch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sisters of the Road T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subway to Venus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sultans of Swing T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Superstrings S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Chuck Buzzard & Scott Smith, 9-86
Page Views: 424 total · 39/month
Shared By: Matt Pennock on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description

Follows a chunky broken crack. Cruise up the first jugs until you come to an overhanging block. Pro is thin and reachy to place. Pull the cruxy move and step up to the bomber jug up high. Move left onto the ledge then continue up an easier but slightly runout section. Once you get to the ledge you can make a tenuous leftward traverse to the Scott Free anchor or (recommended) step right and punch it through the overhanging hand crack.

Location

Left side of the Main Wall, in an obvious mini-amphitheater. It's the obvious jagged crack on the right side.

Protection

Gear to 1.5" including offset nuts if you finish at Scott Free, cams from 2-3" for the extension.

Photos

Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
5.10a
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
5.10a
One of the best ways to climb this is head up the crack until you can cut right into the finishing hand crack of Dr. Opus. Gear to 3" and stoppers is good for this route. Oct 31, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
The hand crack extension is absolutely stellar! Bring a #2 and #3 for this section. Upper anchors are in a weird spot, so not recommended to top-rope, but fine for lowering. Aug 10, 2018

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