Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Chuck Buzzard & Scott Smith, 9-86
Page Views: 482 total · 35/month
Shared By: Matt Pennock on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description

Follows a chunky broken crack. Cruise up the first jugs until you come to an overhanging block. Pro is thin and reachy to place. Pull the cruxy move and step up to the bomber jug up high. Move left onto the ledge then continue up an easier but slightly runout section. Once you get to the ledge you can make a tenuous leftward traverse to the Scott Free anchor or (recommended) step right and punch it through the overhanging hand crack.

Location

Left side of the Main Wall, in an obvious mini-amphitheater. It's the obvious jagged crack on the right side.

Protection

Gear to 1.5" including offset nuts if you finish at Scott Free, cams from 2-3" for the extension.

Photos

Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
5.10a
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
5.10a
One of the best ways to climb this is head up the crack until you can cut right into the finishing hand crack of Dr. Opus. Gear to 3" and stoppers is good for this route. Oct 31, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
The hand crack extension is absolutely stellar! Bring a #2 and #3 for this section. Upper anchors are in a weird spot, so not recommended to top-rope, but fine for lowering. Aug 10, 2018