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Routes in (4) Main Wall

Ant Abuse T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Catharsis P1 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Dutch Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Full Spank Mode S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Kill the Hate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lost in the Delta Neighborhood T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Mr. Noodle Arm Goes Limp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pillow Talk S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rising Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scott Free S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scotty Hits the Warp Drive T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scotty Jumps Double Dutch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sisters of the Road T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subway to Venus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sultans of Swing T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Superstrings S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Chuck Buzzard & Scott Smith, 9-86
Page Views: 253 total · 32/month
Shared By: Matt Pennock on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Follows up a chunky broken crack. Crux-ish down low until you get to the ledge and can rest.

Cruise up the first jugs placing a couple of stoppers til you come to an over hanging block. It looks like there's nowhere to put pro until you pull the cruxy move and step up to the bomber jug up high. There isn't. Once you get to that nice jug you can put in gear. Whew!

Once you get to the ledge just before the Direct Finish variation there is nowhere left to place gear except the horizontal crack. This leaves an exposed, uncomfortable traverse to get to the anchors at the left. Use a sling and go for it. It's easy but weird. Or continue up the crack overhead.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Gear to 2". Large stoppers, offsets helpful.

Photos

Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
5.10a
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
5.10a
One of the best ways to climb this is head up the crack until you can cut right into the finishing hand crack of Dr. Opus. Gear to 3" and stoppers is good for this route. Oct 31, 2017

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