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Double Dutch Scotty

Name: Double Dutch Scotty
Rating: 3.0

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Main Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aerial Display T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Ant Abuse T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Beam Me Up, Mr. Scott T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Catharsis S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Catharsis [E] T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Double Dutch Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Double Dutch Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Double Dutch Scotty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Dr. Opus Goes Power Lunging T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Full Spank Mode S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
	Hungry for Duress T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Lost in the Delta Neighborhood T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Lovebug Arete T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
	Mixin' It Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mr. Noodle Arm Goes Limp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Nevermind S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Pillow Talk S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Primary Gobbler T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Quarantine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Rising Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Save the Whales T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Scott Free S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Scotty Hits the Warp Drive T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sisters of the Road T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Spectrum T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Subway to Venus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Sultans of Swing T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Superstrings S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Time to Kill S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Trauma Center T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Whatever Blows Your Skirt Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
GPS:	45.3906, -122.45762
FA:	Scott Smith, Chuck Buzzard, 8-87
Page Views:	2,564 total · 24/month
Shared By:	Nate Ball on Nov 18, 2017
Admins:	Roberta Zouain, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Their annual nesting spot is on the Shining Wall, though they can be heard year-round. Please respect the closure and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website - clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page - facebook.com/madronewall/.

Description

This is a combination of two routes which is the best and most intuitive way to climb either. Start as for Double Dutch Left, climbing the featured face past a couple bolts to a left-trending crack on low-angle rock. Instead of stepping right at the low first anchor, step left to the stance and jam up the left-trending hand crack. Just below another ledge, make an obvious traverse right into an obtuse corner. Bust up the layback crack to the anchor ledge.