Full Spank Mode
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.4 from 9 votes
Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
FA: | Chuck Buzzard, 10/88 |
Page Views: | 1,838 total · 24/month |
Shared By: | peachy spohn on Nov 7, 2017 |
Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure
Details
The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Their annual nesting spot is on the Shining Wall, though they can be heard year-round. Please respect the closure and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website - clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page - facebook.com/madronewall/.
Description
One of the best routes at the crag! Begin up the start for Sisters of the Road on easy terrain (somewhat loose), clip a bolt, then traverse right around the arete. Clip the second bolt and go straight up the arete doing a series of lock-offs on small edges. Careful here, kinda sporty - (you could climb to a ledge right and bypass these moves, but it's not the route).
After clipping the oddly placed third bolt, try to shake and not bake, then onwards and upwards to a powerful lock-off on a super neat crimp just above the fourth bolt. A harder alternate finish called Full Wank Mode (Phillip Hranicka, year?) cuts right here, engaging the cool, orange face. Otherwise stay in the dihedral. After the lock-off clip the fifth, hang on for the redpoint crux (a long reach to the crack), then finish up by doing some cowboy/girl dihedraling.
It's a rad route. It's a spicy route. It's a route you should climb.
After clipping the oddly placed third bolt, try to shake and not bake, then onwards and upwards to a powerful lock-off on a super neat crimp just above the fourth bolt. A harder alternate finish called Full Wank Mode (Phillip Hranicka, year?) cuts right here, engaging the cool, orange face. Otherwise stay in the dihedral. After the lock-off clip the fifth, hang on for the redpoint crux (a long reach to the crack), then finish up by doing some cowboy/girl dihedraling.
It's a rad route. It's a spicy route. It's a route you should climb.
Photos
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