Type: Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Chuck Buzzard, 10/88
Page Views: 1,838 total · 24/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Roberta Zouain, Kristin Tippey, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

One of the best routes at the crag! Begin up the start for Sisters of the Road on easy terrain (somewhat loose), clip a bolt, then traverse right around the arete. Clip the second bolt and go straight up the arete doing a series of lock-offs on small edges. Careful here, kinda sporty - (you could climb to a ledge right and bypass these moves, but it's not the route).

After clipping the oddly placed third bolt, try to shake and not bake, then onwards and upwards to a powerful lock-off on a super neat crimp just above the fourth bolt. A harder alternate finish called Full Wank Mode (Phillip Hranicka, year?) cuts right here, engaging the cool, orange face. Otherwise stay in the dihedral. After the lock-off clip the fifth, hang on for the redpoint crux (a long reach to the crack), then finish up by doing some cowboy/girl dihedraling.

It's a rad route. It's a spicy route. It's a route you should climb.

Location Suggest change

Far right side of wall.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts

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