Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: C. Buzzard 1988
Page Views: 345 total · 25/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description

One of the best routes at the crag! Begin up the start for Sisters of the Road on easy terrain (somewhat loose), clip a bolt, then traverse right around the arete. Clip the second bolt and go straight up the arete doing a series of lock-offs on small edges. Careful here, kinda sporty - (you could climb to a ledge right and bypass these moves, but it's not the route).

After clipping the oddly placed third bolt, try to shake and not bake, then onwards and upwards to a powerful lock-off on a super neat crimp just above the fourth bolt. After the lock-off clip the fifth, hang on for the redpoint crux (a long reach to the crack), then finish up by doing some cowboy/girl dihedraling.

It's a rad route. It's a spicy route. It's a route you should climb.

Location

Far right side of wall.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

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Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
You can also place a .5 cam between the last bolt and the anchor to eliminate the runout there. Fun route, imo, I thought 11d was a fair grade for it. Oct 30, 2017