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Routes in (4) Main Wall

Ant Abuse T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Catharsis P1 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Double Dutch Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Dutch Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Spank Mode S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Kill the Hate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lost in the Delta Neighborhood T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Mixing It Up T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Noodle Arm Goes Limp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pillow Talk S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Primary Gobbler T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rising Desperation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scott Free S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Scotty Hits the Warp Drive T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scotty Jumps Double Dutch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sisters of the Road T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Subway to Venus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sultans of Swing T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Superstrings S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: C. Buzzard 1988
Page Views: 257 total · 23/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

Description

One of the best routes at the crag! Begin up the start for Sisters of the Road on easy terrain (somewhat loose), clip a bolt, then traverse right around the arete. Clip the second bolt and go straight up the arete doing a series of lock-offs on small edges. Careful here, kinda sporty - (you could climb to a ledge right and bypass these moves, but it's not the route).

After clipping the oddly placed third bolt, try to shake and not bake, then onwards and upwards to a powerful lock-off on a super neat crimp just above the fourth bolt. After the lock-off clip the fifth, hang on for the redpoint crux (a long reach to the crack), then finish up by doing some cowboy/girl dihedraling.

It's a rad route. It's a spicy route. It's a route you should climb.

Location

Far right side of wall.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

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Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
You can also place a .5 cam between the last bolt and the anchor to eliminate the runout there. Fun route, imo, I thought 11d was a fair grade for it. Oct 30, 2017

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